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But, is it transferable, or only good for the original owner?

Check your rubber flappers on the outside of your scupper drains. They should be taking care of most of this problem. If they have developed a curve, remove the two screws at the top and turn the flap over, and see if it seals better. If you decide to get rid of the originals, I’ll take them off...

What year is your boat?

I don’t know which hole is correct, but I was cleaning some irrelevant papers out of my owner’s notebook earlier today, and came across the Gil bracket paperwork. They said that a good starting point was with a straight edge which extended from the bottom of the hull, across the center of the...

Fishtales, the newer two piece scuppers, that you link above, do not appear to have a nut on the bottom, just a flange that the screw in top piece pulls tight to the bottom of the deck.

I have the same engine on a 2000 SF. Lowrance fuel sensor to NEMA to Lowrance HDS. About $125, plus less than a hundred, if you need a NEMA starter network.

ABYS wiring protocol w/r(white with red stripe) indicates several fuel related uses, alarm, indicator, pulser. I seem to recall pulse dampeners being required in some installations, years ago when I was using Floscan sensors, and that was the first thing that popped into my mind. I don’t think a...

Hookup, so you hit record, get your fish in the box, high fives all around, and hit stop. Does that stopping point become the new starting place for the camera to record and over write from?

One thing that you want to avoid is someone taking a short trailer frame and extending the bunks 3 feet beyond the rear of the frame. I see that all the time. You want the frame of the trailer to extend as far back towards the transom as possible.

Make sure you get a real seacock, and not just a ball valve. A seacock has straight pipe threads on the bottom, to accomadate the threads on the through hull scoop, and tapered threads on the top, for the threads on most everything else, such as hose barbs, nipples, etc. If you mix threads, it...

Isn't there a plug on the bottom for draining, like an oil pan? I have wondered about my 2000 Seafarer bracket, as well, whether it is metal on the transom end, or just caulked to the transom?

A good washdown pump is 5-6 gallons/minute, or 300-360 gal/hr. How is that more volume than an 800-1100 gal/hr livewell pump?

You can buy plastic/nylon bolts, to go in your shackle.

If you replaced the gear case/lower unit, you need to make sure you got the correct gear ratio, and you can't tell if a prop is the correct pitch, just because it "looks straight".

Most are between the pump and the livewell. Your placement should also be keeping the wash down pump and hose primed.

THMarine, on the extension handles. This is your pump. Should be a single release tab, down behind the "S" on Sure Bail. Push it down with a long screw driver, and turn counter clockwise to remove. May have to cut or remove the hose, to turn it...

Before going too far, compare the two WOT throttle positions on the motors. Advance the port shifter all the way forward, disconnect the cable at the motor end, and see if the throttle will even advance any further than the cable moves it.

If you can reach the bottom, even with one hand, there should be a tab on each side of the blue basket to press and release the pump. I don't think Attwood makes that pump any longer, but if you can find one, or if the new style 1700 has the same base, you could wire it up, and push it down...

I would double check my windlass specs, before ordering new rode. 1/2" eight plait seems a little small to me.

In the last 2 or 3 pics, in post #10, it looks like your skeg will hit pavement before the motor is all the way down. If that's the case, you might want to think about raising those bunks to where you have at least a few inches clearance. If your skeg touches the pavement, you are guaranteed...