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First and foremost - excellent - you're back on the water having fun! If I understand correctly, the engine was not dropping RPM or shutting off light a light switch... instead it was stumbling or bogging down? Yup, that's fuel starvation. I'm curious if you replaced the LP pumps first and...

They're meant to run - don't be shy or timid about letting them do that. As noted, it has a built-in "safe operation" limit. Truthfully, it can run higher - but no manufacturer would put the limiter RIGHT at the edge.

And/or, click on their name while you're in a thread and you'll have the option to start a conversation.

WD-40 - I like that idea :)

Well this is really strange. I could have sworn I updated this thread... but apparently not! In a nut shell... nope. I tried everything - all kinds of fluids, air chisel on the end of the crank, wedges, etc, etc. It ended up being hung upside down for a couple months. Somewhere along the...

Simple... you need to supply your A/C with AC power. The Genny and Shore Power can both do that.

I would take this opportunity to make the bolsters as thick as you want to - it's your boat... MAKE it yours :) Yes, monel is better than SS.

Correct. The E-pump should be mounted on the bilge floor. The float can be mounted about 4" or so higher. If you're using an auto-sensing E-pump, then it, itself, should be mounted 4"-ish higher. Personally, I prefer a separate float switch that way the E-pump can be a full back-up for the...

I only briefly skimmed the responses, so this might have been mentioned already... -- It's a safe assumption that it DID function fine at some point. Meaning, you shouldn't have to add anything to get it to work nicely again -- Disconnect the hyd cylinders at each engine and move them by...

It could be dead... or there could be something stuck in it. Try blasting it with a hose and then remove (from the bilge) whatever it was. Is your bilge relatively clean? If not, and the reason for the current issue is that something is stuck in it, it's likely to happen again.

"Skin up"? I assume this is some type of lingo fo repairing? The answer will depend on the where the leak is and the overall condition of the rest of the tank. Where is the leak?

A prop is a good thing to look at, but I don't think it's that. If it was, you'd be easily over-revving the engine at WOT and I'm sure you would have mentioned that. Engine too low is easy enough to check - compare the anti-vent plate to the bottom of the hull. Should be a couple inches...

4 years old, actually! But I think that Gabo guy is probably a spammer. He's talking about using plastic instead of metal!

Sucker... you couldn't resist and went for the 6" deep ones :) Nah, just kidding - you can never go wrong with bigger fenders!

Thasnk for the pictures. If they are nylon, that's a no-no for under the waterline. Grady shouldn't have done that. However, if they are Marelon (a very special, fiber-inforced plastic), then they are totally OK. Marelon IS allowed below the waterline and is actually an excellent product...

OK, I thought you meant in a different location.

Below the water line? Possibly for a raw water washdown/livewell/etc.

If your transom is solid, I think that you would only find that you get better performance. Not by a lot - but can really only be better by moving the engine back. So with the benefit of fixing what your complaint is, this is really a win-win. I don't think 12" should matter... but any issues...

Oh, I understand about having kids on board! :) Best thing I found (and you can actually start them doing some things, even at their age)... give them "jobs" to do. It doesn't matter if the job is actually helpful right now. The point is that "they're helping daddy". It could even be...

Considering putting fenders is on takes about 45 seconds, I'm not sure that "I" would classify that as annoying :) But hey, different strokes for different folks, right? That said, I would prefer to have protection on the dock than on the boat. Not so much because of a perceived...