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Ha! ;)

Yup. Stick with 40a. The assumption is you've had no problems with that breaker tripping so there's no reason to upsize. Besides, as pointed out, you'd have to first check the the circuit and compare that to a chart for amperage vs wire size vs wire run. Breakers/fuses on a boat, like in a...

SS anchor... SS anchor chute... SS swivel... SS windlass.... where's the SS chain to complete the package? :)

In this case the lever arm (at the motor) wouldn't be stuck "down"... but it could be broken off which essentially puts it in the "up" position all the time. Either way - you'll know more once you look. Follow the wires - you can disconnect and ohm the pins while manually moving the lever to...

Tighten to 2 clicks in your elbow Good-n-snug Just enough Just right Tight, but don't get Superman on it Get the idea? :)

Oh, OK. Gotcha. Being a standard hatch, try just googling or looking at retail stores - maybe a local retailer or boat store? It wouldn't need to be a Grady store Edit: Although I would imagine your dealer could tell you the model? Does Bomar have it listed on their site?

Do you mean "less than half"? iShure sounds like a knockoff company. I have no experience with them, but I wouldn't trust it... possibly inferior metal. 9lbs is light. But with enough chain it will work. Get the 14lb (or even 22lb)... as long as it will fit without the nose hitting the bow...

Those are peel-n-stick seals. Contact Boar/Pompanette (or look on their website). If you contact them, you can send them your pic to be sure - but it looks like a standard 20"x20"?

You're probably right. With a little time, they'll clean up nice and shiny, though.

Are you sure the water is coming in through the rubber seal and not still from underneath? Where the latches snugged down to compress the rubber gasket? If you're having them done for you - they'll know. They look like a standard size.

Even though they're SS, they can still get growth (whether soft or hard) on them. In your case, it's a moot point to paint them.

I'm glad you got yours apart! I doubt you caused the crack to the impeller housing. There's already some play between the tube and the hole... and all the wiggle wiggle wiggle you did up above wouldn't really translate to THAT extent down below. Moot point and just a guess, though :)

I've had a few boats with the zippers. Sure, your idea would work fine, but it's probably more work than you need to do. Use some beeswax on the slide-in part and you shouldn't have a problem. Silicone spray into the channel and a little on the slide-in part is another way.

You are 100% correct regarding the use of 5200! But... what if a tab gets damaged? How do you get it off to replace it if doesn't come off? :) Heat will probably work. But it doesn't really "seal" any better that a true sealant.

Most likely it was just trapped between the plate and the hull. Probe the holes - as long as they don't penetrate into the interior of the boat and everything "feels" solid by probing, I wouldn't worry about. Just give it a day or two to dry out for good measure.

Nope. If the holes appear a little wallowed out (screw not fitting tight), you can slightly drill out the hole to expose fresh glass and then squish a little thickened epoxy in there and then re-drill - but that's the extent of it. Water dripped out... how much? A drop or two? Dripped out...

Thanks for that info - it is very helpful to clarify things for us. Look closely at the switches (back side) - they should be labelled. Verify everything is connected to the correct lug. You can temporarily eliminate the swtich by removing cables from the switch and simply connecting cables...

And, truthfully, with the lower unit off, the engine could start up and run for a minute with absolutely no worries. Or hook the hose to the flush port.

Correct. See post #3 :)

Wait... John... is this trim tab mounted on the bottom of the hull? If so... ugh. Based on what's been written I've been under the impression that the tab is mounted in the more normal location of being screwed into the transom. If it's on the bottom - this entire converstation has been all...