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We're splitting hairs here. Technically, Seasick is 100% correct - it is an insulator and should not be used between electrical connections. That part is true and fact. That was why I said "best practice". But in reality, a SMALL/VERY THIN amount works fine for this application. That was...

A local glass company should be easily able to make that for you out of safety glass - especially since (I think... you can double check by looking at the frame) it's just a flat piece of glass (not curved).

Don't take our response too seriously - it was all in good fun. I had never heard of it. It doesn't sound like it's a replacement for true chartplotter (or even a backup). Tracking is one thing but using it for safe navigation and trip planning is entirely different thing. It might be a...

That sounds like a dog food company...

Placement there is just fine. As noted, though, of more importance is your tongue weight and axle(s) location.

I was just about to say the same thing. That light spritz is the worst! I wish had windshield "washers". Thinking about that... I guess it wouldn't really be all that hard to add them - but I bet the salt would clog them up. Maybe I could fill the washer tank with Salt Away :)

Welcome aboard, Dog. The same issue can have different causes. Take it step by step and diagnose. In the end, it's a very basic system with only a few parts to it.

Oh... a little more on dielectric. The reason a very light coating tends to be fine in real life is because of the microscopic surface imperfections (more on this below) of the two mating surfaces and also that we're not dealing with highly sensitive electronics here - the computer is...

Clean and protect and you should be fine. Clean all the metal surfaces real well... I almost wonder if there was a fragment/sliver of another metal in there. I think you'll find once you clean off the oil housing that it's totally fine, too. Seasick/Bill... you guys are both right...

Is this a "new" issue? If so, something is blocking it. Lift the flapper and look inside. I'm sure what you mean by "Tried the rubber thru hull stopper seems to be ok". Did you put some type of rubber stopper into the drain?

Shoot - I was hoping the engine was in the wrong hole as that's an easy fix. Well, if you have the capabilities to lift it, anyways. Does he have you trimming the engine to a certain spot during those tests? Reason being, adjusting the engine trim has a dramatic impact on the boats pitch/angle.

Wow! That's pretty darn good customer service, there! Were you able to confirm engine height with him?

It's one thing to "find" a picture... but it's a whole 'nother thing to actually post it! :)

Yes, absolutely. Most all cleats are deck mounted. The "tie" between the cleat the bow eye is not about how much holding power the cleat has for anchoring (or docking)... the "tie" is simply there to make lifting the boat a bit easier.

The boat can lifted using the actual bow "eye"... the one you connect the trailer winch strap to. So, yes, do what you want with the lifting cleat. You could just relocate that cleat a few inches port or stbd with a backer plate. Just enough that it's out of the way of the rode. You don't...

They shouldn't be connected directly to a battery. They are grounded, so yes, connected to the battery in the end, but not direct. It sounds like you have a short between the sender wire and ground. Look at your sender and the pink wire - see if it's shorted to ground at the tank.

I would guess lights, too. Strange that someone would install and then purposefully remove them, though. Obviously, something WAS mounted in that hole. Definitely not OEM, though, so we're only guessing.

True. And it wouldn't be hard to use the sandpaper to gradually blend back in so it wouldn't be as aesthetically noticeable.

I've sanded before, too. You may lose the "pebble" finish but it will look better than it did before. I wonder... to "sort of match" the pebble finish... I bet you could roughen the surface with a steel brush and a little acetone. Something like that, anyways - I think with a little...

Bleach won't hurt it. The whole thing is "beige" - it's not like it's a dyed piece of cotton. GW doesn't "dye" white starboard to become beige. Beige starboard IS beige. What to use to remove the stain often depends on what the stain is, though. What do you think caused the stain? Ink...