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You're overthinking that part. The rear of the boat is fully supported. That line of thinking is not what is causing what you saw - that's a relatively common thing to see. It's just the way the boat is sitting on the trailer and trailer flex. What you could do, though, is move the winch up...

Fiberglass is the reinforcing "additive" to epoxy. It's like aggregate and re-bar for cement. The question is... and you often don't know this till you get in there (so there's no way for us to advise)... how wet are things and how far does the wetness extend. Personally... I would drill a...

"Twice a second"... meaning the clicking continues for as long as you hold the button down? See if you can narrow down if the clicking is coming from the trim motor or from the relays on the side of the engine. Remove the engine cowl and locate your relays. You are looking for two wires -...

Look closer at where the bunk is aligned - it's aligned with the pocket (which is part of the transom). There is no (purposeful) room to have the bunk extended further aft. The pocket is a very strong part of the transom. He MAY be able to slide the bunks further inwards to avoid the pocket...

Looking at your picture, it appears you only have an inch or two till you get to the edge of the transom and the start of the tabs mounting plate/hinge. Your tabs are in a "pocket", right? The "rest" of the transom doesn't matter at all. All that matters is what sits on the bunks. Going more...

Nope. Will probably try the air chisel in the next few days.

Your conventional wisdom comment is correct. However, in this case, I believe he's only about an inch or two from the transom which is close enough as makes no difference. The rest of what we see are trim tabs. Or at least that's how it appears, anyways. If it's trailering well at highway...

Need a better description. It's normal for relays to click when being activated. Describe the clicking in more detail. What happens at idle or with the engine off? You didn't mention if the trim still works properly?

Many shops won't use customer supplied paint. If they do, keep in mind that if the paint fails, in any way, you can't go back to them to remedy it. If you let them use what they know will work and the paint fails/chips off/etc, they "should" take care of it.

No, that is not correct. The breaker is pretty much always "on". It will only trip if there's an issue. So this is not a conclusive test. Let's try to sum up things in one place - it's just getting a little hard to follow what you're doing. I realize you've said some of this already...

OK, so it's unlikely that it was from a rock (although not impossible). Since this has happened, I would assume, by now: -- You have closely inspected the gypsy for obvious signs of rough edges -- Watched closely as the line comes in for slippage -- Checked that the correct size line is being...

FYI, Karen has a separate thread going about her issue. Actual cause is still to be determined.

Good question. Highlander, please clarify. But... go to SIM Yamaha's website - they're actually a real Yamaha dealership and are available for questions. Good prices, too. You may be able to find an aftermarket pump by a company like Sierra.

First, NEVER in the history of boating have the words "Shoot, I should have bought the smaller engine" EVER been uttered :) Now, you have a number of factors affecting your decision, including budget. For example, you can get a rebuilt powerhead. But all of those factors are personal...

Are you sure the damage was from the gypsy? A more likely scenario is that the line was already frayed from contact with a rock.

So with a 265, you probably have twin engines? It's likely that you were messing with the ENGINE battery switches and there is a separate HOUSE battery switch that you haven't used, yet. Unless... and I didn't see this clarified... has turning ONLY those two switches off in the past also...

What you've written does not make sense. These switches are not electronic and RARELY go bad. Having two of them disintegrate on the inside at the same time is pretty much unheard of. What would make more sense is that you had the switches on the wrong setting. But... what do you mean by...

From what I know (and maybe others can confirm/deny) that L-channel is simply there at the transom to stiffen it up and keep it from bowing outwards. It's basically "inside" like the bang cap is "outside" (obviously the bang cap is not structural). My mother's '00 192 even has one. My...

There's an aluminum L-channel INSIDE/UNDER the bang cap - sort of along the top edge of the transom. But what I was referring to - and what I thought you were as well - is a brace that goes from the transom down to a stringer. That would be visible inside the bilge if you have one.

Drew, you would notice the aluminum bracing if it was there. It's pretty easy to spot. I'm not sure the "breathing" theory holds water. With a bang cap, the area under the bang cap is (should be anyways) completely sealed with caulk/sealant anyways. So even with that, it's totally sealed -...