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There's no bilge in the 192. Just a flat deck with water going right out.

Not a bad idea using the bow rails. Some kind of support would still be needed - more than a pole or two, I think. Maybe a couple cover support slats? Maybe secure them to each other and then the center bow cleat, as well? Assuming his boat is the same as mine, the scuppers are floor level...

If you're good with the downfalls of major modifications, then your second-to-last sentence may by the most important reason! But I'd really caution you against doing anything with the steering. A canvas bow cover will offer some protection, but it won't stand up to a large/heavy wave coming...

The reason for the layout of your boat (the "conditions" you mentioned) is to blue the line between a fishing boat and a sports/runabout for the family. Lot's of families like that particular layout with the way the seats are arranged and a full windshield. It just sounds like it's not the...

Sure, you "could" do that, Don. The downside is that it would end up being very heavy and expensive. It would take a lot of glass and resin to do that. The advantage to using a core (plywood or whatever) is that you get strength without the weight or cost. The way the core does this is by...

100% agree.

A 40 or 60 grit flapper works wonders, though, right! It looks like that's what you may have used. I found that to be the fastest. For the squares of wood that were still stubbornly hanging on, I used a combination of a shingle removal tool (long, heavy and has a "scraper" edge) and an...

Oooff. Well, that's no good. Truthfully, I think you'll be OK. Wash everything down with fresh water and then spray WD40 everywhere (this is actually the CORRECT use for WD40!). Spray it again the next day. And again the following day. Clean every contact you can. When you're done...

In the pickup fitting may be an anti-siphon valve. Those get gummed up over time from stale fuel. But you can clean them with some brake clean (or replace - they're not expensive). Some remove them all together but if your fuel line drops below the tank height, the purpose of the CG law about...

No worries, Hook - all good! Poly does, however, work extremely well for repairs. Most yards and many pros will use poly - especially places that do lots of this work. By far, poly is the most widely used product in the industry for repairs. I use both - probably epoxy moreso than poly - but...

Unless you're wrapping the engine, you'll want to leave the engine down (past horizontal) so that it eliminates the possibility of water getting in behind the prop and freezing/cracking the housing. It's unlikely to happen since there's plenty of room for the ice to expand - but better safe...

Why?

Polyester is a perfectly fine choice for this repair. It's MORE than strong enough so the extra strength of the epoxy isn't a "need". Boats are built out of polyester. However, personally, I would use epoxy if I was doing it indoors due to much less smell. It's also a little easier to work...

Either way you go, it's a good choice. In the end, it's what makes YOU feel good about your choice and it sounds like you put some solid thought into it,

As noted, you're not really going to see the benefits of a SS prop on a smaller HP motor. Save your money. Also as noted... first get some performance specs before doing anything. There's multiple reasons for a slow hole shot - tired engine... dirty bottom... banged up prop... fuel...

What is a "sleeve"? OK, so by "starter turns over"... does that mean the engine cranks but never attempts fire? Or does it make some noises like it's tryign to start but never fully does? Computer? What's the fuel pressure when trying to start? It may be as simple as a clogged vent line -...

Ford vs Chevy... or Nissan vs Toyota as the case may be There's no such thing as a "bad" engine manufacturer. You'd be happy with either. Any performance differences (whether due to weight or whatever) are going to be negligible. Mercury makes a good engine, too - although it sounds like...

I do not. But there's probaly zero chance they are the "same" bracket. It's not an off the shelf piece. Mock it up with some cardboard pieces or strips of luan. It won't be too hard to do.

Kevin, since you said "panel", can we assume it is a removable panel? But, as others have said, there are plenty of posts on this topic - both here and on the web, in general. It's a pretty straight forward repair... cut the bottom skin off, get rid of all the old wood, use epoxy or polyester...

"Starter does not turn over"... that, coupled with the engine dieing... leads us towards main battery connections (both positive and ground). Check at battery (and at the starter fuse). Not having 12V at the pump - gotta check electrical connections again. But before you do all that...