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Butyl tape is great for the pie holes, but it would be the wrong product for sealing the floor panels. A caulk/sealant is what is needed for the perimeter of the floor panel. Boat Life LifeSeal will last a long, long time - but many people like pulling the panel every so often to inspect the...

Yup, very normal. I wonder if it has anything to do with the age of the shaft seals, as well. Older seals may not fit quite as tight. It's not spinning under any force - you could actually stop it with your hand... or a stick. Mine actually spins quite fast - but easily stopped.

Along that line of thinking, it's not like they're all of a sudden going to start gushing in water. It will start with a small weep that takes quite a long time to get worse. With no coring involved in the hull, they're really won't be any damage, either.

If you're positive, then that's good enough for me. If you're wrong, well, that's on you :) In that case, let's go back to my response (and others) above regarding repairing ;)

Although the sealant (if done well) can certainly last longer, I would consider (my opinion, of course) this a "best practice" thing to consider re-sealing at this point since it's under the waterline. To answer your other question, the only place the thru-hull/seacock would leak is exactly...

Bronze thru-hulls (hopefully you just used the wrong term) are fantastic. It's unlikely that need re-sealing at this point, but are you talking about below the waterline or above? It certainly can't hurt to re-seal, though.

Joe, I think you need a picture. This started out as a "scuff" and is now at least a "gouge". It would be good for us to know exactly what is going on so we don't have to keep changing our answers. Who knows - this could end up being a case where there is actual fiberglass breakage and...

OK, now I understand better, Joe. So Marine Tex IS an option, then? So this depends a lot on how extensive it is. If there's an impact area with spider cracking... that cracking will eventually start to get worse. It's still primarily cosmetic, though. Cracks need to be ground out/widened...

Repair? You said there was no damage - just a scuff, right? In that case, just buff it out. If it's a scuff in the color of the can (green I assume, since you didn't say "nun"), then you may be able to take it off with mineral spirits (or similar).

Why you can't see there are multiple ways to be helpful is beyond me. No one way is the best. That's a very closed-minded viewpoint.

But that is not what was done. The information to easily find the information was provided - which is a perfectly valid way of helping. I did not KNOW the answer off the top of my head so helped by showing him where he can find the answer... I fell like this has been said/explained many...

It depends on how involved you want to get. You might consider leaving the old wires in place and zip tieing the new ones to the old ones.

I'd give you a dollar to buy a clue, but I don't think it'd be enough.

OK, so I'd rather clear this up in a positive way than let it just hang out there. Look at your first line in your first post. That has a negative conotation to it and yes, I found it offensive. The real question, especially after I explained my intent, is whether RI Adventure found my post...

Well, your opinion IS one that matters. I could care less how anyone else types - I told you how it would be FOR ME... and also that it is a moot point - not sure why you harped on it. Why you feel the need to put someone else down for a difference in opinion is beyond me. I wasn't mean or...

Think before you write. You're making assumptions. First, it is NOT quicker (at least for me) to go to GW's site to look up the info, however that's inconsequential as it's not the reason I wrote what I did. Second, by YOUR OWN ADMISSION, "perhaps the OP didn't realize the answer... could be...

Welcome aboard! Go to GW's site and try looking in past brochures. I'm sure you'll find it there. Of course, this assumes the tank hasn't been replaced.

Another GREAT source for a manufacturer of rubrails is Barbour Plastics.

There are many different styles of lights - a picture would help. However, there's usually visible screws for most styles. If not, the cover would pop off.

No, like I said, that can't happen. Snaps need to be installed on the cover to match the boat. A bow cover isn't much money. Try contacting the original canvas maker. Maybe A&J? Not sure - check the tag on your cockpit cover or ask Grady if no one else knows.