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Why would you want an inferior setup, though? Just because it's "factory", doesn't mean it's best, you know?

Yup - check spark. You can hold the plug, grounded to the engine block (sometimes hard to see depending on light). But a spark tester tool is a good idea to have on hand. If no spark, swap with another and check. Is still no good, swap coils and check. Just out of curiosity, why do you...

Sims specifically said he's looking for "below the waterline", though. Sims, did you mis-speak? If it's below the waterline, you have to use bronze or Mareleon. However, since those fittings are already bronze, it would be really rare to have to replace them.

Now... I'm getting a bit out of my element here... but if I recall, there's a fuel pressure regulator on the backside of the VST that if clogged, can cause a restriction in the amount of fuel? Not sure on that, though... but may at least be worthwhile checking into.

I think what you mentioned there in your first paragraph nulls the idea of the gauge being bad. If the lower unit was causing that much internal drag... the engine would likely stall at idle speeds. Although an interesting idea, I wouldn't be doing that right now. Do you have counter rotating...

Interesting as that's a different cylinder deactivation program than my OX66. IIRC, it drops #2 at idle speeds and then it drops #2 and #5 until over about 2,100RPM... at which point all come back on line. Just to double check... it's PHYSICALLY low on RPM's, right? Not just according to the...

So it used to be better or was it always this way since you owned? Was it different during the sea trial? Generally, though, yes, if pressure at the rail is good that part of the system should be good. However, there's always that idea of how pressure is not the same as flow rate... I know...

Since you used the term "losing some top end RPM's"... can we take that to mean that it used to be better? Changing props would only be a band-aid in that situation, not a solution. I'm not sure where the sensor for fuel pressure is on your motor... where is it located? I'd put a fuel...

It's to show on the gauge. Your engine is the fuel pump.

Some pylons aren't rated for pulling tubes - or at least only small ones with small riders. I have no idea about the Grady setup. But the last thing you want is to be on the fringe of it's rating and have that thing break off and hurdle back towards your riders. My suggestion... look up Turbo...

I haven't done it on your model, but have done it on plenty of boats over the years. You shouldn't really be in for any real surprises (other than sometimes tight access... but hey, it's a boat... that kinda goes with the territory!). In the end, it's just basic plumbing.

You gotta just pull the panel off. It's not like "knowing" what's under there is going to help... you still need to get in there to un-jamb it, you know? Less talkin' 'bout it and more action! :)

Ah! It's THAT kind of crew! Understood. I bet they're cute, though! OK, just "throwing out" another suggestion about the life ring. The problem with those, I've always thought, is that you really need a rope on it for it to be useful. Otherwise, you make a bad throw and what do you do...

Like Seasick mentioned, with many Grady's, the "forward" bilge is slightly lower than the main, aft bilge due to the hull design. It's very normal for a small amount of water to collect there - aside from rain from the anchor locker, it could even be "aft" bilge water that runs forward as...

Try firmly bouncing opposite sides of the wheel with your hand - you might get lucky and crack it free. Maybe.

I hear 'ya about the heat - I was outside, basically just walking around slowly doing a small chore - maybe 30 minutes, tops. I'm soaked. "Motivated" - sure, understood. What I mentioned isn't really "needed" - it's just one of those "best practice" things. But other methods will be MORE...

Mike, although you've probably thought of this, I'll mention it "just in case" as maybe you just change how you tie up and not need to add the cleat at all... What if you could keep the boat tied up such that the bow CAN NOT rub against the dock? One way is to keep the stern line as short as...

FYI, don't limit yourself to looking for ONLY 226's. The process is the same for all setups and the boat model means nothing. There's not much more I can add to Seasick's advice, other than to say... "ditto". Those are pretty much your two options. Since you're replacing... do you want to...

Many caps just pop off, but hard to say without a pic.

I'd give them another shot on the phone. They're really your best source to make 100% sure it'll work. I imagine that, like most in the marine industry, they are extremely busy helping customers. Be patient and wait your turn :) But, seriously, call them again - just do something else while...