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Garmin uses their own software. I'm not sure if Simrad uses Navionics or C-Map (I think those are the two other major software players). But, yeah, that's the reason. Personally, I don't know of anyway to convert - maybe reaching out to Garmin might be start?

Doc, I completely concur with your thoughts on the octane - octane does nothing for power with normal-compression engines. However, regular gas DOES have more BTU's (energy) than e10 gas. I'm surprised you saw the gains you did as I didn't think the energy difference is enough to make that...

Leave 'em... he'll keep the mice away.

I'm not sure what you're asking... are you curious about whether or not you can use on-land pump-gas with ethanol? While e-free is great if you can find it, there's nothing wrong with using e-gas. I would always use something like Startron, though - regardless of e-gas (but especially with...

Boat/motor/trailer? I'd buy that with the transom completely rotten in a heartbeat for $5K.

Yeah, not surprised. Their walkarounds have been slowly disappearing over the years. The market has been demanding CC's much more.

You are correct. Rubber contains carbon that can cause corrosion. Now, if they were actually neoprene strips (not "rubber"), then that part is moot. However, those strips weren't always bonded well (or could lose their bond) - and this would then allow moisture to seep in. Aluminum can...

If you have halfway decent carpentry skills you can rebuild the floor panel - remove the glass skin and wood from the underside, rebuild. Look around (search) on this site for a number of posts about this - and also just google - plenty of info out there about rebuilding a hatch.

Absolutely.

Aft, starboard corner

A boat owner is a person just like a pro. It all comes down to your skill set, comfort level and free time.

This is absolutely true for inboard/stern drives with an alternator. I haven't found a conclusive answer for outboards - although I "think" it is safe to do so... but "think" is not conclusive... so for now, like Seasick, I don't want to be the guinea pig!

I guess you could look on Rule's website (Xylem). But if it's not a snap-in, there will just be a couple screws. Either way, simple enough. Bring proper tools/extensions. Even if it is snap-in, there's always the possibility that a previous owner screwed it down.

FYI, a barb connector to connect the old line to the new one (tape it together) will help pull it through the tube - silicone spray will help.

Give yourself more credit - it's self explanatory when you see it in person. That fitting is used for a portable gas tank. I'll assume you don't have Oetiker pliers and clamps (google it), so bring a couple appropriate band clamps and a pair of snips in case you have to cut off an Oetiker (IF...

Does it use "what" fitting that comes with "which" assemblies? But the hoses are clamped onto a barb. It will take you less time to figure it out than the time it took you to write that question :)

Don't glue it down. Just shim it around the top edge - to keep it from sliding around. It doesn't take much. You could again glue glass strips to where you are going to have the shims. A few FRP, PVC plastic or aluminum L-channel (say 2" by 2") can be secured to the bulkhead and stringers...

Assuming you're talking about portlights? A picture would help, but it sounds like your screens are glued to the inside of the frame and then the rubber seals are stuck (they come peel-n-stick) onto the screen. Meaning, the screen is sandwiched between the frame and the seals. If you want...

Muriatic acid or On & Off will make "magical" work of the rust stains. Then, loosen/clean and recaulk your fittings. Stainless is susceptible to "crevice corrosion" when it is not allowed to have contact with air. Little "crevices" hold moisture and that leads to the rust staining you see...

No, that shouldn't have anything to do with it. Got any leaks on the inside or outside of the transom?