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You're welcome!

I like to replace them when they are about half way eaten up. You can sretch that a bit, but unless it's near the end of the season, it's not worth it.

Just looking at it, I don't think you're too far off. I think it's a good guesstimate that 6" would do it. Just a heads up - and I don't mean this in any way to put down your choice of trailer, but the place I work at used to sell them and we stopped a while ago due to too many quality issues...

The OX66 drops #5 between about 700-1200 rpm, then #5 and #2 from 1200 to about 2000. I could be off a tiny bit on those RPM's, but that's the jist of it. It's strange that the HPDI would be different - I "thought" the main difference was just direct injection as opposed to EFI?

Also, when you are weighing the tongue weight, be sure you're doing it with the trailer frame level - otherwise your weight will not be accurate. Are you taking it to a scale or are you doing the at-home method with a bathroom scale and wood? They're called "anti-sway bars". If your trailer...

When you get the new ones, compare them to the existing ones. If they feel/look the same, then the existing are aluminum, as well. Keep the new set for the future since the existing ones still have plenty of life left.

You're probably already doing this, but make sure the trailer frame is level by using the proper ball mount. If it's not level, you'll get an imbalance of weight distribution on the axles.

6 inches will certainly make a difference - but I'm not sure there's a way to say exactly how much it will change things.. The other option is to move your axles. You probably won't need the full 700lbs - boat trailer manufacturer's recommend 5% to 7%.

Well, first, don't cover things up - that's just a band-aid. Gotta find the root cause. Is this seeping up through a crack? My first guess would be a compromised/wet core. edit: incorrekt speeling

That's what I'm wondering - how much is in there? Enough to have fun?

Thought this might be of interest. Far less than what you'll put into that Columbian. https://allentown.craigslist.org/boa/d/slatington-1978-grady-white-204/7290997178.html

And doesn't Mg then burn at a much higher temp? Like crazy high? I wonder if there's enough true Mg in one of those to have some fun...

Don't be afraid to cut an access hole to make things more convenient. Fill the hole with an inspection plate.

What if they are Al? :)

It might be a little shallow in the rear deadrise for some of the heavier stuff. And, while the bow keel starts out pretty sharp, it starts to get flat pretty quick, too. Probably going to pound a bit in the chop. Not that it can't handle it (if you rebuild it correctly), just don't expect a...

From memory, it does look similar. But you could look through the archived brochures that are available on Grady's website to get a better idea. In the end, though, it is what it is so don't get too caught up in this aspect of things. There's no real monetary value to this one way or the...

If there's no mention of it in the brochure for your model, you could contact Grady. Or... just pop the inspection plate off and look at the tank tag. Another "or"... since you should really be pulling the hatch off to check the tank condition, you could just measure it HxWxL and convert to...

Well, you tell by feel/weight once you know what you're doing. Hard to describe, I suppose, via words. I assume you didn't put those on yourself and instead paid someone otherwise you'd know... But, check your service bills to see what was put on. If I had to guess, they kinda look like Al...

Are you sure your existing anodes are Zn? If you've got Yamaha brand anodes on their, they are Al and that is perfectly fine in fresh water - no need to change. If you do need to change, check out anodes by Performance Metals - they're excellent Al anodes. As good (better in my opinion) as...

Yeah, but I just used up my one really good idea that I get per month...