Search results

I don't have a specific answer for you, but I can tell you what I would do in this situation. First, I would tend to err towards "better safe than sorry" and just use the same manufacturer's topcoat paint. Second, for things like this when I'm not quite sure - I'd would just call Interlux...

Sure, they're readily available for disc brakes - that shouldn't be hard to find, at all. Titan is the company I have experience with.

I second what Hoon is saying - those EOH setups are VERY reliable. Once you go EOH, you won't go back. The braking performance is much improved and you have manual control over the brakes, too (I mention this from long time experience with this). The hydraulic pump/control unit and battery...

I'm not saying this IS the issue, but it could certainly be explained by a fuel line that is failing internally. Especially with ethanol - and if those fuel lines are 17 years old. What can happen is they start to come apart a bit on the inside and the "flap" acts as a check valve - sometimes...

OK... RPM's going higher just before stalling is typically indicative of lack of fuel supply. -- Can this happen to either engine? -- What happens to the primer bulb? We probably talked about this already, but if it's a fuel supply issue, it can be... the tank pickup... AS valve... the fuel...

The boat is finished with gelcoat, not paint. While you may be able to source matching gelcoat (possibly from a place like Spectrum or your Grady dealer), it's not actually going to match. It would have matched in 1982, but it no longer will since your gelcaot is now a different color than it...

You didn't mention that in your first post - that's totally different. I have never seen, and am not aware of, any cover that is designed to go OVER a bimini top. Too many issues with that - don't even go down that road. However, you could have a cover made that goes AROUND the (4) bimini...

Good video, Russ. I'm happy to see some data prove that what I've "thought" to be true over the years, truly is. I agree that you don't "need" a WD hitch, but it will definitely make a noticeable difference in the way the truck performs by using it. The WD setup helps distribute the weight...

Ignorance, for sure. Not sure about other reasons. But coming from a bunch of expereince with cruisers - or any boat with shore power for that matter - the main electrical board on the boat will often have a "reversed polarity" light. So if you hook up to dock power and you see that red light...

From the picture you have, holding the cover, it appears you'll be looking around it a lot under most driving conditions - that will get annoying real fast. Most likely, once the bracket is on there, it will even be a bit lower, still.

Weighing... Go here: https://catscale.com/cat-scale-locator/ and find a local CAT scale. The one near me (happens to be at a landscape supply company) charges about $20 and simply says "Go have fun - do as much you want". I just make sure to call ahead and go at a time when they won't be using...

I think you can call that "good enough"! :) One question... do either of those crossbeams come in contact with the tank? There should be an air gap to prevent corrosion to the tank.

But it's new to you - Which is still exciting!

Yes - you'd be surprised at how many customers we get with failed/failing bearings with the rear seal blown out/leaking. When we inform the customers, it's invariably responded to with "I can't understand how I can have bearing problems... I put grease in them every time I trailer!". After...

Not for nothing, but I asked you that last Tuesday! :) That would have explained things right away. Bet you'll like having a brand new engine on there!

Agree. All of the "better" boat trailer manufacturer's I have ever dealt with will recommend 5% to 7%. The 10% to 15% is for 5th wheel type setups, not ball mounted. From personally setting up a few trailers in my line of work, I can tell verify that, too.

This is 100% true. Too much grease pumped in can cause the rear seal to leak - which won't be seen because it's behind the wheel. This wil then let water in. For most people, adding grease once to maybe 3 times a season is more than enough. Stop adding grease once the BB's spring plate gets...

And... no, you don't need a fuse on a ground/negative wire.

Gotcha. Then it sounds like it just isn't wound up as tight as it should be yet - I've been there many times with new straps. Or, it's just that you're loading too deeply. Been there, too. Try cranking on the handle there in your yard - really lean on it. Just keep your face out of the way...

The strap can and will unwind a bit if it's been recently replaced - until it get's wound up tight. But the winch, itself, should NOT be slipping. Meaning, the handle should stay put in the same location - easy enough to check. If the handle is moving, the gears are shot - and stop trailering...