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Lee, sorry about the misinformation. I've been around this stuff for a long time and that's the first I heard of the footprint change. But... glad you got nice, smooth working seats! If for some reason that adhesive doesn't hold... bolt a piece of plywood to the old holes and then use t-nuts...

You're gonna laugh when I tell you this, but... Loosen the handle so the seat can spin freely... simply lift up on the seat. It will come right off the post. C'mon... you're 62 years old - you GOTTA know the saying of "work smarter, not harder" by now! :) It "might" be this...

If you're getting bow steer, there's too much hull in the water. As you surmised - and as mentioned, get the bow higher. I'll add that sometimes, when coming down the wave face, you need to back off throttle a bit to let the stern squat and not plow into the next wave. Then throttle up again...

You're right - cleaning up the dash is a good reason to eliminate the circuit breakers. I'd probably do the same thing. The extra time to move the wires is really quite insignificant. As long as you follow the color coding (most manuals have this) or label everything really well, it would be...

If you check the AC unit you have, there is usually info on the tag that tells you the running and startup amp/watts. That would tell you if the 2K genny would be enough. Often, a 5K or maybe a 7K AC unit will be fine. But there are some very serious risks associated with this. Please take...

Yes, those four bolts/holes that hold the slider base to the seat... those are a standard size in the industry. Any slider assembly you get will match up with the seat.

That bilge gelcoat was applied too thick. It's not all that uncommon, though, given the location as it would tend to pool there during layup. I didn't think a boat the size of the Sailfish would use a cored hull bottom? Can anyone confirm? IF you are positive that the water is oozing out...

Have you diagnosed what is causing the batteries to be drawn down so fast? That's the first step. It would be silly to replace things without first finding out what the issue is. What do you mean by "lose power overnight"? -- What is the resting battery voltage and charging voltage (via...

Yup. Nothing to worry about. Just cosmetic, stress cracks.

Some might, some might not. Gelcoat is applied by hand at the factory. In reality, what others have doesn't really matter. I've seen this kind of thing, quite literally, hundreds and hundreds of times (I work in the industry). If it's what you are explaining, it is entirely a "no big deal"...

Picture is taken from way too far away to see, but... from what you've described, I wouldn't worry about it. It's most likely a spot where the gelcoat was originally applied too thick and has since "spider cracked" or "stress cracked". Just cosmetic.

Oak would be good - plywood is fine, too. You could always glue a couple pieces of ply together to get the thickness you need. For good measure, you could put a few coats of epoxy on the wood. Filling/drilling holes... So, most manufacturers don't go to this extent, but it's definitely...

What Glacier was getting at is IF it is cored (wood)... the wood could be soft/rotten from leaks. Which could explain why the bolts loosen up. Remove a bolt and inspect the hole to see if there's wood. If you have easy access to the area on the inside of the boat (where the bolts are), a...

Not familiar with it. But from the pictures, it appears very similar to SeaDek (very familiar with that). Have you looked at SeaDek or Aquatraction in person? Maybe contact each and get samples. There's lot's of pics of boats with SeaDek - seeing as how it looks so similar, that should at...

Good question... hopefully the answer is such that we don't have to talk about the "possible" next step!

Ah, yes, that info helps. So I think we're just back to one issue... the nuts were either not tightened enough or are loosening. Don't worry about replacing the bolts - just replace the nuts with new nylocs. With whatever sealant you decide, yes, lift the base plates sufficiently to allow...

From what you've written, it sounds like you're dealing with two things. First, it seems like you're applying the 4200 on the OUTSIDE of everything - meaning, exposed to UV rays. 4200 is not UV stable - so it is likely breaking down. Second, you said "the bases seem to loosen up again". That...

Well, from what I can see, the repair you did looks good, Robert. The bottom edge is nice and clean and straight. Obviously it's your gig so certainly do as you feel best. But... the mounting bolts being exposed is a non-issue - they won't be harmed in any way and it won't change the...

Question... you're talking about using an anchor roller that sits completely on top of the pulpit? Is it wider than your cutout? If so, you could just put it right on top if it would span the gap/cutout. If you're thinking of the same type of anchor roller that I am (I had one of those on my...

Yes, all of that is correct. The top part (where you sit) holds the fresh water. The bottom part is the "black tank". The two pieces separate very easily. Be forewarned... if there is "stuff" in the bottom tank, removing the hoses could very well cause it to leak out. Tip the pottie forward...