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"Regularly" is a very relative term. It depends on use (hours) and the waters that the boat is in. Your location shows that you are in primarily fresh water? In general, fresh is less active than salt.

First, they are ALL called sacrificial anodes - or just anodes. They can be made out of zinc, aluminum or magnesium. The most commonly used would be aluminum. There is another one under the tail end of the anti-ventilation plate (above the prop). You would also have small ones in the heads -...

Just trying to understand your situation... is reaching over the transom to to the spot where the rigging tube attaches the stern too far? Because you could velcro the hose to that spot. There's other ways of securing it there. as well. But that's the jist of it for the easiest/least...

Go to Home Depot and get a hose mender... cut a length of hose out of your home's garden hose to use for the boat... use the hose mender to repair your home's hose. Also get a set of male/female end repair kits and a garden hose "end cap"... use the repair kit to put ends on the hose and the...

Yup - the Fisher will do everything you want it to. Just have to weigh the cost vs shrink. Big initial outlay, but will pay for itself over time. On the hand, if you're handy, you can reuse a shrink wrap at least 3 years.

How fancy do you want to get? Reverso makes an automatic system. Or, it could be as simple as a short length of garden hose with an inexpensive hose shutoff valve.

Can never go wrong with more HP on a boat! For comparison sakes, though, it's not exactly apples to apples. You went from 450HP to 600HP - to compare Yamaha vs Suzuki with that type of HP increase is not legitimate. But what it does show is what many of us long time boaters know - increasing...

In what way are you thinking/wondering about? Earlier you mentioned you simply hit the brakes to get the bow to/under the roller. That's a fully acceptable way to do things - with the caveat (as mentioned above)of sometimes you can't stop quick enough. If this is about the bow not being all...

FYI, it's not the "stern" that you want in regards to where the measurement goes to. It's where the hull bottom stops - typically where the garboard drain plug is. You could also try contacting Grady - I'm sure they could provide it for you.

Oh, you're talking about the bow bouncing around? As in... boucning separately from the trailer? That sounds more like you're simply not getting the boat fully onto the trailer. The bow should snugged tightly against the bow roller which should then mean that the bow eye is also tucked...

To each their own... agree. Like you, I've been in this business for a long time - and have yet to see a trailer failure due to metal fatigue. However, in the spirit of honesty, I have yet to see a failure due to strapping the bow eye down tight to the trailer, either. In reality, we're...

When you say "only a safety chain", I assume you mean in addition to the winch strap (or cable). If you properly pull the boat tight against the bow roller, then the bow eye should be tucked under the bow roller... which keeps the bow of the boat from bouncing. I subsrcibe to a different...

A small, portable solar charger would be more than keep the battery topped off. But it would still have to be a long, long, LONG time for a pump running ocassionally to kill a big battery. With 150 hours of usage over 3 months, (which is quite a lot) I think something else may be going on...

Whomever makes the bracket for you will work with you and figure out what works best for your situation. I'm not really sure what you're asking, though... are you making the bracket yourself? Are you searching for a used one? I believe someone responded in your other bracket thread in regards...

Since you're asking about a charger, is it safe to assume that your current one took a dump? I'm a big fan of the ProMariner Pronautic series of chargers. I have tons of experience with these on my own boats and customer's boats - literally hundreds. And they not only have advanced features...

That's good that you used LifeCaulk - excellent stuff. I like that stuff a lot for this type of application. LifeCaulk is not as tenacious as 5200 - it's more akin to 3M 4200.

Good points - I will "second" them!

Yes, they do (some of them, anyways) tend to activate sooner than a typical float switch does. You could just raise it a bit by shimming with a few SS or nylon washers. However, the flip side to this is... why is there so much water in the bilge that it keeps turning on? Maybe fix the root...

Reading through this thread... glad you got it done, Steve. Yeah, some things around a boat can be quite challenging, to say the least. But, hey, I guess it's the nature of the beast! But one note... Grady didn't use 5200. If they did, you would have destroyed the gelcoat/fiberglass trying...

Can you post some pics of your winch setup? Or describe it really well? That would help a lot and save some guessing. But, generally, if it's sliding backwards then it wasn't cranked tight enough to begin with... or in the case of a new strap, it wasn't wound tight enough.