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I've owned a remote spot and I'll never own another. Useless. trying to point that thing while your driving a narrow channel in the dark..trying to follow a marker with the light... Get a flood on the pulpit and/or the hardtop and a rechargable handheld spot. You should have a handheld spot...

Looping back around to the beginning... You say "based on your reading of the manual" its a 30 amp breaker on the AC panel. I am surprised a charger would need any more than a 15 amp breaker on the AC panel. My 265 has a 10 amp breaker for the charger. The entire panel is probably a 30 amp...

A short circuit of the AC cable between the breaker and the connection to the charger. More than likely though, a problem would have been at the connection. I am assuming that the breaker that is tripping is labelled "Charger" and that is the only place it goes. If there are other things on the...

hmm.. OK disconnect AC power from the boat.(so you don't get electrocuted) find the connection of the charger AC cord to the AC power. Disconnect it (it might be a plug, it might be butt connectors, it might be half-assed wire nutted) Make sure the Black (HOT) White (Neutral) are taped off so...

also, running on plane with motors down too far will tilt you.

YES. But I doubt the probelm is the breaker anyways. I would try disconnecting the charger..from the AC...from batteries... figure out what changes things...

I would suspect the charger but swapping the wires to a different breaker on the panel is a quick check. I would disconnect the charge leads from batteries one at a time and see if one stops it from popping. Does it trip with no batteries connected? Is the charger hard-wired or does it have...

Put the trim tabs up. Visually confirm that they are BOTH all the way up. pull the fuse and never use them.

Which other switch "blinked"? I would test the switches. Put a good ground on pin 7 and +12v on pin 8. If it doesn't light, it has a bad LED (or you didn't connect it right). This below is most likely the switch you have.

I have all Garmin stuff. I've spent a lot of time & money making choices. I have found one thing over the years is that GARMIN dealers never discount the latest greatest version of any model or product. When you see a "sale" price, the product is not the newest offering. That doesn't mean its...

You have to pay attention to details on MFDs. It appears that price is without a transducer. Also its older g3 charts not the latest US + Canada Navionics+

Wire color or you haven't asked a serious question yet.... Do they go down to the helm in the tube from the e-box or do they run out of the e-box into the starboard upper hardtop frame?

A little confused by your question. You say you have a stationary dock. Tideslides that I have seen are for floating docks. https://www.tideslide.com If you are asking if floating docks are better then...yes There are other attachment methods(piling hoops) but generally yes, floating docks...

Your MFD is showing the voltage at the MFD, not at the battery. Do your motors tilt up & down normally? Do they start? Your batteries are good. If you get low volt alarms on your MFD, but your motors work fine, you have a poor connection. Often, starting a motor or raising a motor drops the...

Once I ordered a 16# galv claw and they accidentally sent me a brand new $270 SS Lewmar DTX by mistake. Its been in my garage for years cause its too shiny to lose on a wreck.

The illumination wire is probably blue and jumps from pin 8 on all switches In any case the illumination +12 is on pin 8 and the indicator/illumination ground is pin 7. If the pump runs but neither the illumination nor indicator light, then look at pin 7. Illumination is the "backlight" of...

First question...do you have a winch or capstan or none of the above? If you haul by hand, that effects whether you go #22 vs #16. 22 out on the pulpit is a bear to handle #16.5 claw holds my 265 well. I went back to it from 22 Amazon/Claw anchor

Yes usually the Nav/anchor switch is used to power the rest of the illuminated switches since you always use that when its dark. I would expect thats how Grady wired it. There could be a separate switch with a dimmer. You might not have illuminated switches, only indicator switches.

My problem with IAC was mostly when backing off to idle from speed. Thats how it would begin. Then progress to stalling at idle. It never was a problem starting. I think I remember there was a bypass adjustment for setting the idle. Back to the OP problem. I just wanted to put it out there...

only replaced one IACV in 12 years on my DF140. Carb spray usually got it good for another year. Thats a symptom though. stalling out in idle or especially, stalling out when you quickly throttle back to idle. Throttle closes and it doesn't get enough air. The IAC was contolling the bypass air...