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:oops:oh, its even more confusing. There is acrylic(plexiglass), polycarbonate(Lexan), ABS, HDPE(Starboard), LDPE, PVC.....

you can get ABS sheet in a variety of patterns and finishes. Probably better for that application. Its easier to work with than acrylic. It won't crack at holes.

you mean like thru hulls under or near the waterline?:rolleyes::p

I don't have any plastic thru hulls. But again. its only coming out if is bad so why be concerned about ability to remove it without destroying it? The OP had a plastic mushroom flange fail. I have had a 20 year old bronze flange fail. Once the flange breaks off, there is no mechanical...

I would argue for 5200 on thru hulls (below or near the waterline) because you DO need adhesive. Often the inner hull surface is not flat and the thru hull nut does not come tight. Sometimes tightening the nut can tilt the thru hull in the opening (ASK ME HOW I KNOW). By using 5200, the nut...

I think it was a 6002A but West Marine updated their website and sale history was lost.

So far as I know, the changes were to add bouyancy to the stern to accomodate heavier 4 strokes. They did that thru changes in the hull design/running surface. They did away with 22 degree hulls and went to 20. They got rid of bolt on brackets and extended the running surface. they raised the...

got out Saturday afternoon to the same spot. Caught 10 gallons of squid. Crazy amount of squid there. No tuna bites. There were a couple caught in the fleet around 5 to 6 pm

Usually there was an inline ATO blade type fuseholder from the FEED post of the Battery switch. That fed the Float switch. As Seasick said, that connected to the pump with the wire coming from the manual switch. Get rid of that POS red button breaker. Use an MRCB or 285 type switchable breaker.

I would look for a puddle of hydraulic fluid and broken hoses before adding fluid... Also, disconnect the motors from the steering and make sure they can turn. My gut raction is thats crazy old steering thats just the first thing you've found, the boat has been sitting for years and is...

Its a ground bonding wire. Ties differnt pieces of metal together. Yes file it won't hurt. you could put a blob of silicone on the end too.

Got out inlet at 130 pm. Ran to area north of Tolten lump. East of Seaside lumps. Dropped a squid jig and a spinning rod that was rigged with RonZ and a dropper loop hook… using as another squid rod….It got ate by a tuna that didn’t know it was hooked We lost that quick. Found a couple...

265 fishin' machine!

what surprises me most is that the hardtop connects to the removeable gunnel piece and not the main liner.

Nice! Like to see what other people catch in other places. Consider posting in the Fishing Reports section and keep one post going instead of starting new ones. That way you have a sort of log of what you were catching where and when. Lets other people in your area chime in.

You should never have any fuel in your bilge. Its a concern.

I don't think so. the height (of the catch area) looks too short and that is for screwing to a frame (sheet metal screw) but I need one that attaches thru the glass(has a plastic bushing to screw to.) It could be frankenstein'd though...

I would start with the connections to the gauge and to the sender and from the tank to the battery ground. Also measure the sender. Yamaha digital gauge or is it an old school analog gauge?

Its all connected. That is the lowest spot on the boat when its sitting in the water at rest. It can also sit there if the bow is not high enough when on a trailer. Its not unusual. Does your boat have a forward bilge pump?

This was not useable. Height ok but not long enough. I can't find an OEM "D" latch. Window is back in without a latch for now. I can frankenstein one with a 1/4-20 bolt and piece of starboard but I'm going to think on it a while...