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Open the starboard panel in your aft cabin and check for leaks around the Holding tank hoses, vacuum pumps etc. you can tighten and replace the gaskets quite easily. Mine had minor leaks around both the vacuum pump and the discharge pump. Also check to make sure your vent hose goes out the...

Also, be aware that gauge is programmable to the protocol used by the specific sender. It must be sent to USA or European or Yamaha standard. Download the manual for the gauge and it will tell you how to program the gauge for various displays and sensors.

If you place a big crescent wrench on the through hull bolt the valve should unscrew pretty easily. Easy for me to say!

My question as well? Is it bent? Is it leaking? Is it frozen? If it is just the handle or it’s stiff, put a new handle on it take the hose off lubricate the ball valve put it back together. My 2007 330 had the same valve and was stiff I removed the hose sprayed silicon into the ball valve and...

One additional requirement for air conditioning is a cooling water source so the boat cannot be on a lift. It must be in the water.

I was referring to the tilt mechanism in the helm itself, if one exists. I have it on my 2007 330.

The tilt helm mechanism in the helm itself is what I was referring to. The tilt mechanism in the helm could possibly cause friction as it is a universal joint type mechanical connection between the helm and the helm pump. It did with my helm. They make a kit to replace the older design.

The power assist pump is not standard on the earlier model 330s. My 2007 330 with twin 300s has no assist pump and handles easily. It could be that you engines themselves are stiff to turn or your hydraulic steering system has problems. The tilt mechanism has been known to be a weak link in...

The only items left powered with switches off are the bilge pump(s) and the stereo memory and possibly, as on my 330, the VHF FM marine radio. I wired the VHF in case of a switch failure and the need to contact USCG or other assistance.

In a typical windlass installation, the switch at the helm will not be connected to a 6 gauge wire. Those switches are normally not capable of handling the high amps required by a windlass. The helm switch typically activates a contactor/relay in the anchor locker. The six gauge wire will be...

If your tachometer is correct, there are only three possibilities. Cavitation, a slipping propeller hub, or major gear case failure. You should be able to hear and feel cavitation and gear failure.

Depending on the size of your tank and the number of hot cold cycles and humidity in the environment if left near empty a large tank can generate a pint of water every few months from condensation alone.

Unless you have YDIS the gauges are the only way to reset your maintenance intervals.

It may be too late, but you may consider the 1243xsv which is about 2 inches smaller. I have that smaller one in my small boat. It does not have knobs but touchscreen seems to work fine. Saves a lot of space.

It’s a lot of work, but you could pull the port side panel in the aft cabin and find the tee that goes up to that sink and cap it off. That panel is not real difficult to pull however. It would also give you the opportunity to inspect the wash down and freshwater pumps.

Research the vertical beam width of the radar you will install. That will give you an idea of how critical the angle really is. For example the Garmin Fantoms have a 25 degree vertical beam width. A few degrees is inconsequential.

I have the 50 W Garmin Fantom radar which has a 25° vertical beam width. That means that with a 12 1/2° tilt upward for the hard top the bottom of the beam will be level with the horizon. Mine works fine as is. You can always add that wedge later.

On my 330 I have the radar on the Seaview mount on the hump and a search light in the front about 12 inches behind the leading edge of the hard top. It all works good. Not sure an additional wedge is required in your case. The beam width of the new Garmin’s is pretty wide and mine works fine...

You didn’t mention that you checked the fuel water separator. It could be something as simple as water in the fuel and you may not have noticed it when changing the VST components. I always pour my fuel water separators into a glass jar and look for clear and bright fuel with no water layer.

Ditto