Search results

I totally missed that little, important, part when I read his initial post!

I should clarify, though, that MOST systems are a reverse-cycle. I don't know, but I "suppose" there are systems out there that are not - there by only being AC only. I can't say what's on the OP's boat at this point. But, yes, they do a nice job with heat... until the water gets too cold of...

Same as a home's heat pump - pump always works - basically, the compressor just goes into reverse.

Ah, that makes sense why a "temporary" latch type thing is used. Good point.

At this point anything is a possibility - you'll know more after some further investigation. Truthfully, anything else would be guessing right now.

Was water flowing out the thru-hull? Did you open the seacock? It's a heat pump - basically the same as a heat pump in a house, but it uses water as the medium instead of of air.

Could you use a barrell latch? It would be more secure in pounding seas. But I honetly don't know if the existing type of latch is/isn't secure enough to start with.

Thanks, Shift. Good luck - reparing electrical connections often becomes a 3-times bigger project than you initially think ;)

A more exact statement is that it's a fuse holder for a (currently) inoperative float switch ;) Please don't take this as offensive as it's meant as preventative... but you have A LOT of "ugly" going on there (which happens over time). There's a bunch of bad looking conenctions/wires - it...

I "assumed" when he said "manually" moved the engine he used the release valve... but good point - maybe he just pushed the engine really hard! :) But, yeah, more detail is important otherwise we end up just typing for no reason or going around in circles :)

Chris - he stated he only gets a clicking noise... no motor noise is made.

Go boating. Hammer down. As noted, a break-in procedure doesn't apply here. It's mostly about your gear set - making sure they mesh nicely.

If it "wasn't" a click like you get when starting an engine... what WAS it like? That would help more :) Did it then trim down fine? Where did you check for V? Need much more detail. Sounds more like a relay issue, though. Check for power on both sides.

If the pic that Sdfish posted is what you had in mind, that's an everyday place to install it. No issues whatsoever.

The reed style is generally longer lasting and a bit more reliable - but the lever style is perfectly fine, too. If you have a local marine store, just take yours in and you'll likely walk out with a new one that day. They're really a dime-a-dozen kind of part and available everywhere. What...

Are you sure you're not trying to get the 3/8" line fitted onto the tank VENT fitting? That would be 5/8". Otherwise, if you took 3/8" off the fuel pickup barb and are putting 3/8" back on, there should be no issues. As noted above, any type of lubricant is fine. Make sure you didn't...

There will be plenty of spots to install - it's a very normal thing to install on a boat... all types of boats, for that matter. It doesn't have to e PERFECTLY flat, though. Drill, seal, install.. go boating. Given there are so many spots that it can be successfully installed, maybe you can...

I suppose there's any number of options that can work. Since your pump is direct mounted to the seacock, here's a couple more ideas... -- Remove the pump from the seacock and plop it into a container of antifreeze and then activate the pump till pink comes out everywhere. -- Remove the hose...

I can't imagine that it didn't make it's way into the tank - especially if you kept filling up after it went in the hole. About the only thing you can do is to remove the sender and see if you can fish it out.

I "suspect" that the ladder will move around a bit as the boat is moving - especially with the added drag (granted minimal) of the camera box.