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Other than the access to replace the thru-hulls, etc... which of course is MORE than half the battle... -- Some heat can help soften old caulk -- Sometimes you can get fishing line between the thru-hull head and boat to help break the caulk free -- A sawzall makes short work of the old hose --...

With one caveat... if the barb of the deck drain breaks and completely falls off, it's possible to allow the entire ocean into the boat :)

Yes, for siphoning, the exit end of the hose must be lower than the input end. I think it has something to do with the way physics works... ;) If you get a battery powered pump, MAKE SURE it is compatible with gas. The last thing you want is to use a normal pump only to have everything go up...

Gotcha. For me, a small fluke anchor has worked very well over the years. It's light and easy to store somewhere - use one of those electrical cord reels from Home Depot to store your "beach anchor" rode. It can hold about 100' of 3/8" rope. You can use a snap clip to attach-deattach to the...

So just to clarify... you're going to use you main anchor out in the water, and then you want another anchor to hook on land to keep the boat near the sandbar and not float back out?

A basic stereo install is pretty straight forward - espeically the area you're talking about - it's pretty much as simple as simple can get. Cut some holes and get 'er done!

Did you check out the link that Seasick looked up for you? Or, call Moeller and talk to them. Measure your coffin, drop a tank in that fits and go boating :)

You might also want to see if you can buy a plastic tank that would fit your area. Moeller is probably one of the largest plastic tank manufacturers. Plastic generally lasts longer and has less issues than aluminum. In the smaller size you're looking for, plastic is quite common.

In most cases, circuit protection is on the positive - but sometimes it's on the negative and sometimes it's on both. What circuit is this protecting?

If you see screws in the grommets, remove those and slide the cushion assembly upwards. That should do it.

Huh? Garboard drain plugs (which is the "norm" to discuss when talking about drain plugs) are a bronze plug/socket. What you wrote doesn't jive?

You have to buy based on the TYPE of threads it is - as others mentioned, it's a pipe thread. That's different than an actual 1/2" measurement. If you don't have a marine store nearby, buy it based on being a pipe thread. 3/8" pipe. Or, measure more accurately and buy it based on it's OD...

OK. Can you note your trimming and max RPM with the old engine. You only mentioned that you "couldn't get it right"... but I can't read your mind as to what that means :)

Provide your dealer with your results. Give them max RPM with a light to normal load when you have trimmed up as far as possible before ventilation or speed no longer increases. Speaking of trimming - did you do that, similar to what I mentioned?

This is a thread about steering - if you can start a new thread, it would be better. What you've done is affectionately called "hi-jacking" :)

I would assume a dealer could get that... maybe have it in stock? But besides that... what type of "pull" is it? Is it a solid pull like would be available at Lowe's? Or is it a "pop-out" style? If it's a pop-out style, maybe it's made by Hafele? I had that style in my Sea Ray.

While I can't help with your actual question, I think you're on the right track. I'd be worried about CO, as well - especially with someone possibly sleeping in the cabin - along with some other issues that come with portables - but that's not a discussion for here... just that I agree with...

If it's original, it will absolutely be glass. Do any boats with regular windshields actually use Plexi? But, since it's many years old, it could have been replaced - you'll have to ID which one it is - it's not hard to do - you'll figure it out. A razor blade will work if it's glass. A...

At nearly 30 years old, there could any number of styles wiper arms on there. Replacements depend on the arm/connection you have. We would need that info or a pic.

In many windshields, there is a rubber-ish-type gasket material in a channel along the base of the windshield. If you have that, simply pull it out to expose the screws. Be careful! You got lucky and didn't break the glass causing many thousands of dollars of damage... and possibly not even...