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If you look on the inside of the bilge you should see a hose attached to that vent hole. It will vent into the engine splash well. As for the bilge discharge, mine connected to a port side thru hull fitting about a foot above the waterline. The GW website will have downloadable owners manual for...

It's just a vent to prevent suction when transitioning up to plane. The other side should vent up top somewhere. It was necessary on hulls with the shorter running surfaces.

I never thought Google would have so many images of a wired shackle! That's what I had, and that's what got hung up numerous times. I think I'll just stick with what I have!

It's possible the wrong size was used and that created the problem to begin with. I have nothing to compare it to. Next time I'm at the boat and think of it, I'll snap a photo. I've had good luck with Loctite, but it would be nice to have a visual indicator of security like wire.

I'm curious to see what this looks like. The PO of my boat made "improvements" from the factory resulting in components that would not work with the windlass or bow roller. I put red Loctite on the eyebolt, torqued it down and then cut the eye off so that it would not hang up on the factory bow...

I didn't trust mine to begin with. A little dab of red Loctite will put your mind at ease.

Inspect them. One of mine cracked. I thoroughly cleaned them, applied sealant to the crack and then around the leading edge of the tube to fiberglass interface. I replaced it a year or 2 later without issue. Funny. My dad had the predecessor to the Adventure. He sold it and I bought the 248 when...

While you are at it, apply sealant around the splash well drains till you have a chance to replace them. They are GWs favorite planned obsolescence feature to contribute to transom rot and/or delamination!

We had a 248. Lots of great memories from that boat! If the transom is sound, you have a diamond in the rough. That boat will run like a scalded dog with those engines once they are 100%. The bottom damage is from rubbing the cross member of the trailer. Get cross member pads or rollers for the...

The Gulfy deck is wider whereas the Journey deck is longer by around a foot, but square footage is nearly equal. If you are trolling on Erie, the added length would be my choice for retrieving fish. Both can get the job done well, but both have their trade offs. You just have to decide what...

I had the same props on f150s with the 270. My hull is different than yours. I never had the problem in a head sea, but constantly lost traction in a following sea. Before changing props, I would make sure your engine height is correct and your engines are trimmed correctly. If that all checks...

I'd love to believe Delrin can handle the torque required to remove that nut. It worked in your case, but my luck rarely follows convention.

According to my 2005 manual, the 270 has a 50 and a 150. The hatches are different, but I'm not 100% sure if the 50 tank is removable compared to yours. Regardless, it doesn't matter for my use. My fuel economy with the Zukes is so good that I have 350 + miles of range off the main tank alone.

That's unfortunate that some GW models were not designed for long term serviceability. I suspect different product managers had different priorities. Nearly everything on the 248 was accessable and serviceable. The 270 is tight but most things are accessible including the fuel tanks - I believe.

Yuk. I pulled the tank on our 248 to clean it. Yours is even worse! I use a little bleach water on the 270. So far no stink or funk, but I think I'll stick a camera into the tank to see if I have any science experiments brewing.

I'm curious to see what it takes for removal. My helm was squeaky and I wanted to take the wheel off for better access to lube it. I tried a strap wrench - no luck and gave up. Shot lube in around the bezel and got the squeak to stop. Eventually I'll need to replace the janky tilt mechanism with...

Giving up on the CD player so soon?;)

The "box" in the cabin is the head unit. If I remember right, powering up the head unit required holding an unlabeled button for a few seconds.

Wild guess - did you try powering up at the head unit? I want to say you have to hold a button for a few seconds for initializing the unit, then you can control it at the helm. That said, I barely use mine so I could be wrong.

Yep!