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Also (not trying to offend here) but make sure you're adjusting the right cable. You can simply check this by moving the handle into forward and reverse while looking back at the boat under the motor cover where the cables come in. The shift cable will be the first one to move, then the...

sounds right to me. It's shouldn't take much. Have the motor running while you're adjusting it. Every turn you take up on the adjustment, slide it back into its place just to see if it made a difference while going into gear. Theres usually enough adjustment in the cable to correct for...

If you had the impellers done recently most definitely the shift shaft spline could have been misaligned by one spline going into the upper housing. When I do them I always make sure the controls are in neutral and I make sure i do not move the shift shaft at all when servicing the lower unit...

One of our customers at our yard has a 26' Seaswirl Striper with a single 200hp Johnson Ocean Runner and I've bay tested that boat multiple times after working on it and it get on plane rather quickly. Not a rocket ship, but the boat still moves ok. Totally different boat I know, but I think...

Price range where an E-tec most likely wouldn't fall into haha. I'm hoping to get a motor on the back of my Grady for less than 5g which is definitely possible if I stick to what I was looking for. Late 90's early 00's are mostly in that price range with mid range hours on them. But that...

24" offshore's were rigged with 25" outboard im pretty sure. I would love an E-tec if its in the price range.

I'm hoping to get a late 90's early 00's carb'd 2 stroke. Lighter, less parts, pretty easy to maintain and work on.

I agree with you 100%. I will do my research before actually buying my motor and see what it actually puts out. Thanks guys keep the posts coming.

Hey guys I'm hoping to have my 85' 24' offshore fully painted by the end of the summer and fully rigged by late winter/spring of next year. I'm going to start looking for a motor for it towards the end of this year. Shooting for a 225 or 250 in whatever flavor I can get my hands on for a good...

What RPM's are you getting? That boat should boogie with that motor no problem.

Had an idea tonight. Being that the electronic head I want to install probably won't fit under the factory step/hatch in the cuddy, I figured why not use it for the hatch I want to make in the rear fuel tank sump. It will be much less work than making a cover out of the cutout piece, and is...

either use 3M heavy duty rubbing compound on a rag/polishing machine, or put some on a brush, wet it and scrub. Compund take most anything off. You can try that or on/off, or boat magic. Both are types of acid used on hulls to remove the stain left from the water line.

Look into blue seas systems if you're interested in going that route. They sell a few fancy ACR's that connect two banks automatically while running the engines and then isolates them once voltage levels increase or you shut the engines off.

Does your boat have a separate paralleling battery switch? I would use each battery individually this way you always have the one reserve battery. I'm asking about the paralleling switch because you can make both house/engine banks common while running the motors, then turn the parallel...

Sometimes the pressure switch on the pumps go bad or don't function properly. Not sure if your pump has one or not usually you'll see the incoming wire go into the switch, come out and then go directly into the pump. If it has one, you can simply try bypassing it and see if that fixes your...

How hard of a hit was it? Only thing that concerns me is the crack above the rub rail, other than that I've seen much worse on customers boats who come back at the end of their season.

Was able to squeeze in half a day today. Mostly grinding some previous glasswork. I made some backing blocks out of 1/2" birch for the bilge pump, thru-hull, and future transducer. Happy to at least put in a little time.

I would to the normal stuff on the motors. Compression, check lower unit oil for water, check for any major corrosion. If the boat was used often, fuel quality shouldn't be an issue. I would go over all the wiring on the boat, most likely it's all original. You can do that even after you buy...

Just to give you an idea, our yard charges the MINIMUM 250.00 ft. for up to a 28' boat. That includes sanding/priming/painting/polishing etc. from the rubrail to waterline. Every boat is different depending on the condition etc. So the surveyor is not too far off (18x250=4500.00). That being...