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Don't let anyone talk you into an over-the-hatch model. A portable will work, but they take up a lot of room. You could have it on deck, and vent into the cabin, but you lose the benefit of dehumidification that way. Most efficient is cooling inside, exhausting to the outside.

Craigslist, Marketplace?

If they have not started since the winter lay up, I would bet that a cable/wire was not re-connected when the batteries were installed. When I take a battery out, I put a small wire tie through the eyes of everything on each terminal.

SIM is Ship Island Marine. An excellent source for accurate information, and OEM parts. Google it, or look for their banner on the website here, which is currently at the bottom of the page on my phone.

Who are you ordering from? I would think that the manufacturer would only need your boat model, with or without pulpit, engine bracket, etc. Look at the big guys, like Carver, and see what they spec for your boat.

If the float switch in the main tank (engine mounted) is properly adjusted, the oil level shouldn’t be near the top of the tank. With the cowling off, you could draw that tank down below the “Minimum” line, and let it run through a refill cycle, to see if it is overfilling.

I would have guessed that the gauge cluster is older than 1994. What brand of motor came on the boat?

Can you not see them inside the hull? Have the hoses, or floor drains ever been replaced?

Pretty pictures, no prices, I think MH is aimed at boat builders, not boat owners.

Duh, senior moment, mine are the same

Is the threaded hole inside the two b&d shapes? Also, is the front of the bracket aluminum, or is the fiberglass of the transom the only front? Pic of the top bolts inside, also the drain plug in the bottom?

Looking good!

I would have thought that cable ends were pretty standard across the industry by now.

Looks like mine are the same way, on a 2000 Seafarer. Also looks like there should be plenty of room if they had to be drilled through. Take the inspection plate off the top of the bracket, and take pics of what you see in there.

Model and year? Do you have access to the previous survey? And the service records?

Bracket from the factory, what year, who manufactured it? Call them up and ask the thread size, and count.

I use a cordless drill and these bore cleaning brushes in different sizes to clean up threaded holes. A squirt of rust buster, in and out a few times, ending with a long period of reverse to back out the dirt. Got lucky, and picked up a bunch at a Walmart clearance for about $.20 apiece.

What matters is how far in is the bolt threading, not how much is left sticking out. If 2.5 is tight with .5 sticking out, 2" are in the hole, which is the motor bracket and the transom bracket. 2" minus the thickness of the motor bracket is how much thread is engaged. Now add a lock washer to...

Assuming that it is aluminum track, which does not go around corners, you have four individual pieces. Look in the corners between the pieces of track, and see if you can find a gap in the piping, or welting, between two of the tracks. Spray all the way around with soapy water, and see if you...

Maybe they are shipping them with the forward bilges pre-filled with water.