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Yes, 1/4" will be just fine. There's absolutely nothing wrong with your square idea. But if you use the flat stock, it spreads the load out over an even larger area. Use 3" flat stock if you prefer. It's relatively inexpensive at MC. If you're OK with the added $, SS in 1/4" is stronger...

If there is a torque #, I don't know it. Truthfully, even if I did, I wouldn't even think twice about not torqueing them. Crank them down and call it a day. If you've done at least "some" wrenching in your days then you probably have a pretty good idea of what it should feel like for large...

Can you just adapt your current tank to use an external mac? You just need to use a dip tube... or use a Y-valve in your pump-out deck fitting's hose to select overboard or pump out.

Is the current tank leaking? But the actual swap is extremely easy and straight forward - there's really nothing to worry about. I imagine the hardest thing is going to be, like with most things boat-related, the access. And, that, I can't help with... I'm too far away :)

One option would be contacting your dealer. Or, go to Southco's website and find the replacement and then look for a retailer. If needed, contact Southco directly for help with either of those things.

To clarify, I agree with the comments about the horns not lasting very long. It's not so much about the horns, themselves, as they're fine - it's the unfortunate location that this style horn has to be located in. However, the OP has a 2024... so the question still remains as whether or not...

If the unit is functioning properly, your first statement is incorrect. Your last statement is correct - but there is absolutely nothing wrong with that in terms of making sound. The opening that you mentioned is EXACTLY how the sound gets out... through the opening. I'm not discounting a...

I'm glad you posted a picture. That is definitely not a MarineTex fix. Just beware... what you're going to need to grind out is going to be, probably, twice as big as what you see. And, yes, the rubrail needs to come off - at least in that area. You "might" get away with using kitty hair -...

By a buzzer, do you mean more "electronic" sounding? Sea Ray has used the same thing and I found out that the reasoning behind it is that the tone was specifically designed to carry further/better on the water than a traditional sound. Remember, it's not important as to what YOU hear at the helm.

Before we go too far down one avenue of repair or the other, please post a couple pics so we understand the severity (or non) of the damage.

Unless you already have it, I'd get aluminum rather than SS simply because it's cheaper and will work just as well. But honestly, an old plastic cutting board (or a new one from the dollar store) will work equally as well. Just use some large "fender" washers with the plastic if you go that...

I've called that crap "pot metal" before... but I like your term better! Yup, absolute junk. Funny enough, I know there are pre-made (one piece) SS supports, but I've NEVER seen that style bracket/mount in SS. Only in zamak or nylon.

Side mounts are actually easier - there's no pole sticking straight down directly underneath the table.

FYI, a floor mount is basically flush - it only sticks up a tiny bit. If the area where you're mounting is just relatively thin fiberglass, definitely put a back plate on there. I'm not sure what you mean by aluminum "brackets" - but you could use aluminum flat stock - or just a piece of...

How would he remove the livewell?

Gotcha. You coud shim between the seat and frame or even underneath the frame. Maybe you make a box under the frame to create some shallow storage area?

Hard to say without seeing pics - the online brochure looks like it's about normal? Are you trimming properly - or are you running with the bow too high? Are you trying to go higher... or do you really mean "closer". But... just make a spacer between the cushion and frame if you're talking...

Yes, either the thumbwheel ratchet or a shorti 1/4" drive. The downside is that since the screw faces aft, it makes it even more difficult given the way your hand will be orientated. Along the lines of cutting the fitting... I'd be replacing that fitting, anyways. Since that is original...

There's a good chance that because it's been UV damaged over the years and also not a smooth/clean surface that a new pad won't stick well. It'll only take a few minutes to remove it.

On your model, no. But from your pictures, it looks like you can get your left hand on it through that access plate? would it help to cut and install a bigger access plate?