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Small world! Thank you for service... both of you! :) Ha! That boat looks just like the one that one of my uncle's had (they each had one, but different colors) when I was a kid (I'm 51). That engine is a WHOLE heck of a lot newer :) My guess would be somewhere in the early to mid 2000...

Welcome aboard, pops! Grady is based out of NC, so I'm sure you can find plenty of Grady owners near you. But is there anything specific you are wondering about? Really, when it comes to doing repairs/etc... a boat is a boat is a boat. What year engine and what outdrive model? Are the...

If you buy a set of covers online, they will not come with the snaps installed in the covers, either. So you'll need the install tool, as well. If you've never done this before it can be quite daunting. Installing onto a 10 year old boat makes no difference - there are no "gotcha's" because...

Couple tidbits to pass along... -- Try using the term cockpit cover instead of transom cover if you're searching. I don't think I've ever heard of the term transom cover for this since it's not really accurate. -- Keep in mind that if you buy a used cover you will need to move the snaps on the...

Ah, gotcha. Understood and agree. $500 for a 30' boat is a very good price over here! But, yes, it would be a waste considering your use. Here's an idea that I woud consider if I was in your boat :) -- Install slide-in tracking around the underside/perimeter of your hardtop. Then have a...

When we shrink a boat, we use hanging anti-moisture packets with a drip-collecting "cup". We also add vents to the cover. We've been doing it this way for decades and it works very well. While the anti-moisture packets can only help, the most important thing is air circulation - the vents -...

I do a lot of shrink wrapping... I don't think I'd test my skills at trying to shrink wrap hay - the gun I use puts about 250,000 BTU's... I'm pretty sure I'd catch that big roll of hay on fire rather quickly :) Meaning, I think they use thinner, stretchier plastic and roll it tightely around...

If it drains properly, yes, no issues. But if the tray stays fuller it "could" cause issues - granted they would be cumulative, not immediate. But, back to what you think is the culprit... can you route the ducting "up" as it leaves the backside of the vent? Even just a little bit would do...

The blower is attached to the condenser unit? That's awful close to the condensate tray. I would imagine that if it's not setup to drain well, or the drain is clogged, then the tray stays full of water and the fan is pulling in very moist air all the time. Especially with that spurt of water...

Ha! I forgot about them. Have actually used them a couple times at the shop for customers.

If you find a source, let us know. I've been looking for a couple years - I know others have been looking, too. Marine Glass Specialists "may" be a source - but I haven't had much luck getting in touch with them. Other than that, let your fingers do the walking by googling for boat salvage...

I've had an Atlantic Towers product for the 7 years I have owned this boat - I believe the previous owner put it on about 5 or 6 years before I got it. Very happy. Can't talk to pricing - but I think it's right there on their site if you wanted to check. If shipping gets to be too much...

Although my experience with IAC's comes from a different brand, a bad IAC also would show as an inability to even start. Basically, anything at idle. The OP didn't say anything about starting problems - to me, it came across as "it will start fine... but eventually die off". I guess it...

Moose, just an FYI... of course you can do this any way you want, but you can save some time and money by keeping things simpler. Meaning, you ABSOLUTELY don't need a second sheet of Coosa - that is WAY overkill. Really, all you would have had to do was lay a light mat on the hatch, then the...

Thanks for the quick reply on that. This is the part I was worried about. This is the reason you had an issue. If that nut's threads aren't PERFECTLY aligned to the plate's threads, then that slight mismatch causes binding on the pylon's threads. It would be better NOT to weld the new nut...

Glad you got it sorted. Is the base plate threaded, at all? The reason I ask is because that black plug looks like it has a slot to screw it in.

I thought of that, too. I'm thinking that it's "possible" that the low RPM doesn't create enough suction via the low pressure pumps to overcome a small blockage... but the increased RPM does. 'Course, I'm assuming this engine has the block-mounted LP pumps and not an electric pump? It's one...

Also, try taking the fuel fill cap off - see if that makes a difference.

The sky is limit as to materials/etc. But... the jist of it... -- For the sunpad filler - make a template out 1/2" foamboard insulation. I like this better than cardboard because it's stiffer and more like the real thing. When you're satisfied, use your template to make the structure board...

I would agree with the others that it's way too cautious of advice that you got. I would never NOT change a t-stat for that reason... besides, the bolts are at least in a good area to extract if needed. Whether penetrating oil will sneak in there or not is debatable - but it also can't hurt to...