Search results

Look on the top of the block right between the thermostat housings. You may have a loop bolted on there already. My '98 225s had it as do my '00 200s.

No way a Tahoe is going to safely pull a 282. I lugged Capt. Bill's boat about 150 miles with my 3/4 ton Dodge 4x4 (HEMI, not diesel) and I needed every bit of that truck to get the job done. I have pulled my '93 252 with my wife's 5.3 Suburban and it did pretty well...but that was with no gas...

Yes, the Johnson 4-strokes (at least the higher HP ones) are Suzukis painted white.

Anyone know what the toe-in measurement should be for a pair of Yamaha 200s on a Sailfish 252G? Also, how do you go about setting that? Compare measurements between the prop shafts and tiller arms? Thanks.

It's either a 140, 200 or 225 then.

Johnson never made a 150 4-stroke.

The proper way to reseal the bracket to the transom is to remove the engine(s) and bracket. Clean up both surfaces and then remount the bracket using only 4200 (or 5200 if that's your preference). No gasketing involved.

Could be a number of things... 1. Drain plug 2. Inspection plates 3. Bracket/transom seal 4. Engine mounting bolt seals 5. Galvanic corrosion (your bracket has holes in it now) Pray it's not the last one. The only way to fix that is to replace the bracket...

Personally, I'd go after this one.... http://www.classicmako.com/forum/topic. ... C_ID=29114

Also, I'm 99% sure the "SX" in the model number indicates OX66. "S" was for carbed motors and "Z" for HPDI.

The oil tank is the white plastic one. It's also on the port side, but it's back more toward the cylinder head. The silver VST tank you're looking for is closer to the black air silencer/throttle body cover. It has a schrader valve on top for checking fuel pressure. If he said it's fuel...

Pop the cowling. If there's a big silver tank on the port side, it's an OX66. If not, it's carbed. My 200 OX66s also say "OX66 Fuel Injection" on both sides of the cowling.

Take a look at GregB's 180 on this site. Brand new leftover F150 and new(er) trailer for $18,500 I think. You won't find a better buy. You'll just have to travel to see/get it.

This one might be worth a look... http://www.thebassbarn.com/forum/showth ... p?t=192654

Kirk, My '93 will be going back on the market soon with a pair of '00 Yamaha 200 OX66s complete with all new rigging. Full transom and an '06 HI-TECH aluminum bunk trailer. I'll be asking in the neighborhood of $32K for everything. If you're interested, I can send you some pics. BobP is...

I suggest you take a look at the Parker 2310...espeically if you want to do even the occasional overnighter. From what I have seen, the cabin on the 228 is borderline unusable for anything but storage. Even the berth on the 208 appeared larger to me. The Parker is larger and better built...

Thermostats and poppit valve. If your mechanic pulled the heads before checking those, find a new mechanic.

Careful with styrofoam if you are planning on bonding it to the lid. Certain types of resin (poly, vinyl, epoxy...I can't remember which) eat right through it...

RR brings up a good point. If you have any doubts about the "under deck" components in your boat, this might be a good time to do a little exploratory surgery. But on the other hand (and I can't believe I'm saying this :) ), if you don't currently have any symptoms of structural problems...

The deck should have a light layer of glass on the underside. If you are careful when you cut the top skin and core out, you can leave the bottom glass in place. Rough that glass up w/ 80 grit and bed the new core right to that. Bevel the edges of the existing deck so your new glass (over the...