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Turn the little knob on the side where the wire enters the housing. That will move the float. I like them. There's two in my Sailfish as well. I replaced one when I bought the boat like 3 years ago. The other is original and still works fine. So, I think they're reliable. :)

Cutting out at high RPMs could be a clogged VST filter. Have you cleaned that yet? If not, do it. Costs you only what a can of carb cleaner runs at the local auto parts store...and $20 or so for a new VST gasket if you need one. Spray the stuff into the discharge end of the filter to clean...

Greenwood would be the second thing I looked for in a transom. The first would be lack of moisture. I'd rather have a dry core made of regular marine ply, than a wet one made of Greenwood. Buy yourself a moisture meter and learn how to use it. Test transoms yourself and pick the boat with...

Exactly. If you're topping out at 25 mph, something is wrong. Figure out what is going on before you sink money into a new engine. What RPM are you getting at wide open throttle? What service has been performed on the engine? Low pressure fuel pumps replaced? VST filter cleaned?

Is the soft spot in the cover over the gas tank (removable) or is it to the side of that cover. Both can be repaired, but replacing the core in the tank cover is significantly easier/less expensive.

Could be to allow full tilt of the engine. Other reasons I can think of are more clearance between hull and ground for bottom painting or to prevent the trailer tires from leaving depressions in the asphalt driveway.

I would be looking at Merc props. They seem to put the most R&D in them... Mirage Plus/Rev4/Enertia/etc. can all be made to fit with the correct hub kits.

Sure. :)

It's funny you mention Grady and Parker as both being the best. I've looked at both up close and....sorry, I know this is going to hurt some feelings....Grady construction doesn't hold a candle to Parker construction. Look in the bilge of a Parker. Do you see any wood that is just gelcoated...

If the price is right, I say go for it. I would... :) Check your PMs too.

A right hand rotating engine is considered to be "standard" rotation. Prop spins clockwise. A counter is simply that, counter clockwise rotation, or left hand. Is that the motor you're talking about? Either way, it shouldn't make a big difference. Lots of people run single left hand...

Wrong. Just caulked. Over time the caulking breaks down (or isn't even applied properly to begin with) and lets water get under the trim piece and/or come in through the screw holes. It's probably the no. 1 cause of transom rot on Grady's w/ transom mounted outboards.

If you go through all the trouble associated with getting the trim off, don't bother reinstalling it. Throw it in the trash and glass the joint.

Thanks Finatic and Capt Bill. Short's was the ticket. Talked to Steve today and placed my order. :)

IMO part of the problem with the Yamaha oil tank brackets is that they are a solid piece of steel that sits flush against the mounting surface. Once water gets under them, it's tough for it to get out. Add to that the fact that the paint probably gets scratched up over time from things flexing...

Check out www.classicmako.com to see what's involved in the process of replacing a transom, stringers, floor, etc. before you jump in with both feet. Estimate the cost of doing the job and then multiply that by 3...

SIM = Andrew Munao Jr. = andyjr@shipyardisland.com Best...and I mean BEST...source for Yamaha parts and advice I've ever used. Isn't your insurance covering the damage?????

Thanks! :) Fawcett would be great, but they closed years ago. :cry: I talked to a guy at Teleflex yesterday and he said pretty much any marine retailer should be able to special order what I need. So I have the local West Marine (it's the only place left in my area now that Boater's...

Here's another option... http://www.compositeyacht.biz/ You might also check w/ Judge Yachts in Denton. http://www.judgeyachts.com/

I'm going to be rigging up a pair of 200 OX66s on my 25' Grady in the very near future and need to obtain some parts for my SeaStar system to connect the hydraulic cylinder (HC5342) and tie bar to the engines. There were a number of little items that I couldn't remove from the old engines...