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I use 3M 4000 UV on the gap and seal the screws w/ 5200. Both of those are easier to clean up than silicone.

The necessary drain holes are already there. The problem is sloppy installation of the windows. The drain holes are probably 75% stoppep up w/ excess silcone...which makes it easier for them to clog up w/ dirt...thus preventing proper drainage.

I have one of those OEM swim platforms that I'm not using anymore. Took it off of my Sailfish. Can get you dimensions if you want...

There's really no major changes to the cabin of the Sailfish from 1990 until 2008 (I think that was the last year it was produced). So, weekending on a 25 will be the same as weekending on a 27 which will be the same as weekending on a 28. They all have the aft berth. My '93 Sailfish will...

Nice job! What the story behind that Black Max? Cool engine. I used to have one on my old 204. Very fuel efficient for a 1985 carbed engine. :)

Yep. That's the general idea. However, instead of cutting the ply at 45 degrees, I would have used the grinder and tapered the pieces back about 6 inches. That would have given you an 8:1 scarf (bevel back 8 inches for every 1 inch of thickness). The farther back you bevel, the stronger...

Looks great! Nice job! :) My only suggestion is to next time...if there is a next time...scarf and stagger your joints in the core. Scarfing makes the joint stronger and staggering offsets the joints.

The 2.5 is a proven block. Merc has been using it since the early '90s in carbed, EFI and Opti form and by 2003/4, the bugs had been worked out of the Optis. So, if they've been maintained, they should provide years of service. HPDI is only marginally more efficient than EFI. Not so w/...

OMG...that's one of the ugliest boats I've ever seen...

Pre-SeaV2 or SeaV2 hull? Is this the one on THT?

Yes. I would take it a step farther though. Pull the tanks and empty all of the remaining oil. Then wash them out with a 1/4 to 1/2 gallon of diesel. Empty that and then rinse them numerous times w/ near boiling water. Run some diesel through the transfer pumps too. Lastly, replace the...

Get your current prop fixed and then use it as the spare. Invest some $$$ in a new/used Merc prop (Mirage Plus, Rev4 or Enertia) and you'll see improved performance and economy. Merc has a prop calculator tool on their website that will tell you which props will work best.

I haven't heard that term since Beavis and Butthead went off the air... :lol: My vote goes to the Amsoil HP Injector Oil as well. Capt Bill turned me on to that stuff and it's awesome. I use it in all my non-weedeater 2-strokes now (200 Yamahas, 115 Merc and two old Yamaha Waverunners).

If they ran fine twice I doubt it's the impellers. Have you checked/replaced the thermostats and poppit valves? I would check those and then drop the lower units to check the impeller orientation. I got into the habit of drawing an arrow on the pump housing before I take the impeller off so...

I was told they included the 2" of length added by the rub rail on the transom...thus taking the boat from 27'10" to a full 28'...

It hasn't happened to me personally, but I've read many posts about it. Good luck...and be careful when you remove the bottom of the VST tank. If the gasket gets stretched, it might not go back into place (but new ones are easy to get).

VST filter. Do a search, the procedure for cleaning it has been posted here before.

The drain and fill screws take a thick paper type gasket. If your's have o-rings, that's probably the source of the leak. Take them off and put the right gaskets on.

You should be fine. I would take compression readings to be sure though and listen to the motor closely the next time you run it...after purging the oil system of the 10W-30. Besides, doesn't the motor still run in "limp" mode even when it detects no oil in the tanks? If it can survive that...

Can help you with the head... But on the fuel lines, if your's are original to the boat, you made it longer than most. The fill lines on my '93 Sailfish had to be replaced spring '08.