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I had an '85 204 Fisherman for about 5 years. Great boat that I fished up to 30 miles out. You're gonna love it. :) Drop me a line if you have any specific questions.

Those 225 Optis are STRONG STRONG STRONG. My guess is you'll be flirting with 55. :shock: That will be one sweet setup. :D

Ringfree and Stabil w/ every fill up for me. I'm also running 10mm (I think) 3213 Racors on the exact same motors and have had zero issues w/ Ethanol or fuel delivery.

That should make an awesome combo!!! How did you end up handling the hull to cap joint?

Step 1 should be custserv@gradywhite.com. After than I would check with a Mercruiser shop to see what can interchange/bolt up.

What's under the stripes is the original color. Everything else has faded. I've used the Meguiar's kit referenced above and it does a great job. Plan on 10 hours per hull side. It's a brutal job...but the results are great!

Check w/ Eastern Marine. They probably won't specifically have Henschen axles, but they will set you up with what you need. www.easternmarine.com

To me, that is a very foolish thing to do given the amount of wood in these boats that isn't properly encapsulated.

Personally, I would take the bracket to a fabricator to have a flange added to the top where it mates to the transom. This would serve two purposes: 1. It would increase size of the area that you can apply sealant to. 2. You could add some additional bolts across the top to further...

In or around the wet bar....where the blender and little drink umbrellas are stored. :lol:

That 9'6" beam will also leave plenty of room for either big single or twin inboards under the raised bridge deck... :D :D :D

If it were me, I would find another 208 w/ pulpit and ask the owner if I could take measurements. If so, using those measurements, I would make a plug. Then make a mold from the plug and use the mold to lay up the pulpit. There's NO WAY I would pay $1500 for a bow pulpit uninstalled.

http://www.armstrongnautical.com/dckplates.htm

Sleeve the motor bolt, scupper and aux. bracket holes, drill oversize and refill w/ epoxy all screw holes before redrilling pilot holes and replace that cheesy deckplate w/ an Armstrong.

Yep, that's a good starting point. The plates on my engines are about 1.5" inches above the hull bottom using the OEM bracket and that seems just about right. I had a friend watch them while running in a heavy following sea and he told me any higher and I would probably start blowing out.

It was a spur of the moment decision when I removed the hull decals from my boat. I had a corner sticking up and when I grabbed it to try and break it off, the whole stripe started coming up and I just kept pulling. I literally got about half way up one side when it finally broke. So, I just...

Remove the engine(s), then remove the trim and throw it in the trash. Glass, fair and gelcoat the joint.

Cost. I'm not sure about the cost of poly vs. vinyl, but I can tell you that poly is about 1/3 the cost of epoxy.

Welcome to the 25' no-stripe Grady club. :D

And use 5200 on it instead of silicone.