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Who made the original? Grady White will tell you with a phone call.

I need to replace the decals on my '93 Tournament 22 that I am getting ready to sell .

First sentence in the OP ends with a question mark. Are you selling, or looking to buy???

2 of them say HOT and NO OIL. Are you sure that neither is the case?

I will be doing mine in the next week, if my 10 days at the coast don't get interrupted. My plan is to go through the hatch, like I did on my Tournament, rather than through the pulpit. I replaced my hatch with a piece of 1 inch starboard, so now I can just put the original hatch back on...

Is the 265 the model that has the air injection in the hull bottom? I saw that mentioned here a few months ago, had never heard of it on a Grady.

Bennetts are self-bleeding. Run 2 or 3 cycles up and down, and they should be good. Might check your fluid level. I have installed all of my previous tabs with the hydraulic unit at the transom, and short lines to the rams. This new to me Seafarer, which I am still getting used to, has the HPU...

Seasick, I've never had the kind of delayed reaction you describe for tabs. I've had hydraulic Bennetts, from 12 t0 18 inches wide, on all my boats for decades. Never had an indicator. If I'm on plane, and I press a tab for one second, the effect is immediate. 3 seconds would be a dramatic...

"I am planning on heading out my inlet and into the ocean for the striper runs this fall but still unsure of how best to use the tabs in more adverse/ different wave conditions/ style. " Just remember that if you are running with a following sea, which will happen often coming back to an inlet...

Mine is like Seasick's, rode moves in the same direction as the switch, and it was confusing at first. You can change it to suit your preference by switching two wires. You may have it covered, but the thing I did wrong on a previous install was to put the switch too low, so that I couldn't...

If you don't buy them PM me the contact.

Several people have said 2 or 3 trim bars, so I wonder what gauges you are using. I run the gauge below, and that 8 bars is where I run most of the time. And no, I am not one of those boaters running around with the bow pointing to the sky, I am slightly bow up, with the bow wake breaking in...

You know how to copy/paste, don't you? If not, anybody within arms reach can show you in 30 seconds. You don't have to re-type anything anymore. Or, with your permission, LuckyDude can c/p it as a new post.

Hard to fill screw holes from the outside. because you immediately trap air inside, and can't force the filler in. Go to the Dollar Store and buy a handful of turkey injectors, fill with whatever you are using, and fill the holes from the bottom to the top, backing the heedle out as you fill...

Is this a new to you boat, or just a new problem with an old boat?

I don't think you can add one, you will have to multiply hundred dollar bills:oops:

I think the X and Y coordinates are the wave height and period. I really would like to see a video running 10ft x 12sec on plane.

I thought the same, but re-read, and I think he said he trimmed it up running 45 in the flat water.

When you say, 'needs pumping', that implies that the float switch in the forward bilge is not kicking the pump on. If it is a substantial amount of water, I would check into that. Where do your rod holders/cup holders drain?

Make sure the plug is in, at the bottom of the transom! Assume it is on a trailer, or dry stored these years.