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You have the wrong base. Post is 2 7/8" outside diameter. Spyder is 2 5/8"inside diameter. Bushing is 1/8" thick so 2 5/8 + 1/8" +1/8" = 2 7/8" You need a Spyder with a 2 7/8" inside diameter base and a bushing.

Thanks for all your great ideas. The boat is still at the shop so I plan to share this information with the techs tomorrow morning. I’ll let you know what they say. Thanks again!! So what happened?

There is a nylon bushing that goes inside the seat and over the post. Frequently they deteriorate and fall out. Maybe that is what you have...

Try Springfield Manufacturing directly of find some of their products.

You are better off having one made locally. No mention of where you are located. You can go with a cored fiberglass top or an aluminum frame with thin fiberglass sheet top and bottom. Used tops are problematic. Not fitting and in bad shape.

The problem will be the condition of a used hardtop and aluminum structure if you can find one. I refinished my 25 yo hardtop and tower last year. Did the refinishing myself. If I had to pay someone to do it would have been cheaper to buy new.

Start with what model. Occasionally I put mine into dark mode. Tap the power button and try putting a towel over the unit to shade it. Not sure exactly how I get it back to bright but what I do above works eventually.

The fitting is probably a 3/4" fitting. That's what mine look like. The 3/4" refers to the inside diameter of the pipe. Outside diameter is close to 1".

Please put me on the list too. I don't want to feel left out. Internet BOT. Look at all the responses. Never looks at images (can read but can't "see") and never posts any. Everything you can learn off the web but no real experience. Knows it all, can't accept criticism, doesn't learn from...

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If you can get the 90 off you can get a socket and impact tool on it. Consider doing both while you are in there.

Well it looks like the nut is seized to the handle and broke off the valve. No picture of the valve included. So I would say install a new valve. Hard part will be getting it loose from the bronze thru hull.

Get voltages. My bet is batteries not charging or are bad. I don't care how old they are or if the fuses have been checked. Get voltages. Battery 1 Battery 2 Engine off, charger off 12.8 VDC expected 12.8 VDC expected Engine on charger off 13.1 VDC expected 13.1 VDC expected...

Start simple. As Skunkboat said make sure all battery connections + and - are tight. Set battery switches to bank 1 and bank 2. Test the batteries and charging with the multimeter as above. Make sure you get the proper battery charging voltages to each battery. When fully charged turn charger...

Check your battery charger and engine charging system... This is a basic system test that can be done with a voltmeter. A Harbor Freight voltmeter is good enough. Start here and others can help going forward. At the dock turns all your electronics on and disconnect the boat from shore power...

It's not just Grady White. All of them are in the business of building boats. GW Customer Service is helpful with technical details and maybe has documentation on where some original parts were sourced from. There are a few member here who know who GW gets canvas from. Most have it made custom.

Great advice except no clear coat on gelcoat.

I know you are new here. You can just do "Like" - it's easier!

After looking at a few of these "transom failures" I'm convinced the transoms are separating from the stringers and putting load on the fiberglass hull. The engines are tearing the intact transom out.

The transom should be "green board" by that year. Look for any signs of cracking at the transom. Under rub rail, inside engine well, along vertical outboard sides. Any movement back there is bad.