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I would want more deck to mount a bow roller. Where is the shank going, unless you store the anchor elsewhere?

Look up Palmetto Trooper on THT. Excellent fabricator.

Iron on patches, just like your momma patched the knees of your blue jeans.

I would attach around the top edge, and see how it hangs, and lines up. Easy to do if you have tracks at top edge. Use stickers, paper clips, etc., to mark where the snaps would be if you tried to copy the old enclosure. Personally, I would attach the snaps on site.

Most of the duplex USB chargers have a 1.X, and a 2.X outlet. Other than charging rate, any precautions to watch for, like battery life?

I once looked down at my gps, and just as I looked up, the flag and pole left its bow rail mount headed straight for my face, bounced off the top of the windshield frame, and just missed my head. All in the blink of an eye. I'll never have another one there.

You are going to have to use the backing plate/washer to hold that in, and the rivet barrel will have to be loosely flared to allow it to pivot. Make sure the barrel is long enough for the thickness of your layers, and the washer. The P&S tools for setting those fasteners are several hundred...

you have to know your roof angle. If the one in the ebay link was mounted on a perfectly horizontal top, the rods would be at 15*, which is what I would want, but any slope on the top just adds to that, and gets in the way of casting. If you want something built, and shipped, check out...

Why would anyone, other than the builder, put on a 4, when the top looks easily wide enough for 6 or 8? No one ever said, "I wish I had fewer rod holders".

I was about to say, why does it have to be marine wipers, and then I saw the dates of the original thread. Did you get wipers installed? Looks great. Does anything other than the rubber moding hold the glass in. I think I would have been looking at doing a rabbet around the frame to support...

As long as you can get your hand on it, all bilge pumps that I can think of off hand will have two plastic tabs that you squeeze, and the pump will pop off of the base. If you have to replace, use the same pump motor, and no tools will be required in the tight space, as long as you can get the...

You need to figure out whether you have freshwater or salt water going to your toilet. The through hull after the macerator is discharge. If you have saltwater, you have another through hull for supply. Hopefully there is a seacock there if you have salt water supply.

Also known as a fothering sheet, from the early sailing ships.

Don't know how, or why, but it is unused.

Not a GW, but on my last boat with head(Vacuflush), there was no direct overboard option. Everything went into the holding tank. After that tank, there was a macerator pump, and then a Y valve which selected pump out port, or overboard pump out via macerator and thru hull at the waterline aft...

My '93 has a spare fuel fill hose taped to the one being used, from the fill fitting to the tank.

That was my point, even the best bilge pumps are only good for leaks, not holes of any size. But, most of us put all our eggs in that one basket, without a plan, or supplies, for anything greater.

Put a small lead sinker on that split ring to keep it down snug.

Stay afloat seems to work pretty well in the videos, for cracks, leaks, and small tubing, But I don’t think it would do anything for a fist sized hole, if you hit a submerged object like a tree, or shipping container. Seasick mentioned flow rates. In the Navy, every sailor is a fireman, and one...

Several sales, and reviews, on the THT thread in the last week or so. Not sure if the deal prices are still good.