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I'm not overly familiar with the 192, so please forgive me if you have already tried this... Can you slide the tank back at all and lift from the front end?

Well, the wife says the CC is definitely out. She wants no part of that one again. So, I guess we're talking WA vs. DC now...

The wire trick works fine if you have a little room to work. I would try that before I went at it with a saw and wedges.

Looks descent, but a little much to lug around with a 4.0 liter inline 6 and short wheelbase. The F225 doesn't exactly excite me either with all the recent talk of exhaust corrosion. I would much prefer an OX66 or a Merc.

Thanks for the input guys. Budget will be somewhere in the $30K range so I will not be shopping new and I am not looking to really go any bigger than 22' or so. We want something that I can trailer locally with my Jeep Cherokee (please don't tell me the Jeep can't do it...I know what it's...

Running a quality oil will also help. Merc's Premium Plus, Pennzoil synthetic and Amsoil HP Injector Oil have all worked well for me.

The admiral and I are starting to look at our options for a multi-purpose rig in the 21' to 24' range. Primary uses will be general cruising around, tubing, anchoring for swimming and fishing the Chesapeake Bay. With these activities in mind we are trying to decide which layout would be best...

Put an ad on Craigslist and someone will come drain it all out for you...

No offense to current owners/fans, but that is one of the ugliest boats I've ever seen...

If you guys really wanted to go nuts with the Duratrim replacement, you could get a piece of MDF, route out several channels that are the same width of the trim, seal it with epoxy, wax and you have a mold that can be used to make new trim pieces. Gelcoat the channels in the mold and then layup...

I would just walk. There are too many other options out there now not to keep looking.

One of those drains simply connects the forward bilge to the aft bilge. The other is for the fuel tank compartment. You want a plug in that one whenever the boat is in the water. It prevents any fuel that may leak from the tank from getting into the bilge where ignition sources are present...

If you have never done the low pressure fuel pumps, it's time. As stated, get in touch with Andy and he'll hook you up with the parts you need. Took me about an hour to do all 6 pumps on my old 225 OX66s. Also ask him for the procedure for adjusting the oil pumps (it's super easy) and see if...

Definitely fine thread. I still have the ones I used at the house. Let me see if I can dig 'em up and put a thread gauge on 'em.

Go to your local Autozone and rent a harmonic balancer puller. http://www.autozone.com/autozone/access ... 55524_0_0_ All you really will use is the yoke. Then go buy some bolts to thread into the flywheel (sorry, I forget what size they are) and a big eye bolt at your local hardware store...

Another option is to sleeve your holes w/ sections of PVC or fiberglass tube.

It woudn't. You have to open it to make the system work. If it's closed, the pump can't draw any water in. Your's probably spurted out what little water was left in the lines when you turned it on. Unless something is wrong, you won't take on water with the valve open and the boat sitting...

Based on how the rest of the boat looked are you really that surprised? New transom should be 2 x 3/4" at minimum. I've seen conflicting opinions about whether or not to put glass between the layers of ply. I put a layer of 2415 and a layer of 1.5 oz mat between the sheets of ply in my Mako...

You'll want to grind down the joint and lay multiple layers of glass. 1708 will build strength and seal the joint very well. Fair and then gelcoat for a nice finished look.

For new OEM Yamaha you are probably looking at $2000 to $2500 for just the lower unit and prop, slightly higher if it's for a lefty.