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Believe it or not Ionic has a 30 ah that has 900 cca and it weighs less than 15 lbs! The 40 ah is a beefier design for marine applications - or so they claim. My only pause at this point for the lithium is a malfunction. If they take a crap, will they fry my electronics? You can only fail safe a...

After going through the wiring system, it appears GW combines the starboard start and house systems. They are not isolated in any way. The only thing that is isolated is the port engine and battery. I'm heavily leaning towards a single 100 ah DP for the house and starting needs and then go with...

1 - yes 2 - I don't know, but I'm guessing no. 3 - Is it a battery issue, a starter issue, or both? 4 - Most have an 11 year warranty. I'm confident you would get your $$ back with several other significant perks.

Thanks for the perspective Hookup. However, at that price point I'm more than half way to 2x 30 ah starting batteries and a 100 ah house. I need to check with Ionic to make sure the 30 ah batteries will work for marine starting. The numbers indicate they will. If not, I'd have to go to 40 ah...

The thought of not having to guess how much power you have available and the ease of troubleshooting is so appealing. The life is exceptional also. Not having to lift a 50+ lb battery into the insanely inconvenient bilge is another great advantage.

Ionic has starter, dual purpose, and deep cycle with rave reviews and a lot of users. I'm now wondering if I might be better off sticking with the 3 battery set up. Go with 2 smaller 40 ah starting batteries and one 100 ah DP.?

I'm likely going to be replacing a battery or 3 this off season. The boat is set up with the standard GW 3 battery system for twins and 2 switches. I'm considering going to a dual purpose LiFePo chemistry from Ionic. If I do this I'm also considering going from 3 batteries to 2. The 2x 100 ah...

Looks like this isn't your 1st rodeo and you left your rose glasses at home. If the engine and trailer are 100%, you are off to a good start.

Best of luck. I hope your problems end at the hatch.

The engine alone is worth that much. If the hatch is soft, there is likely water intrusion elsewhere. I would be concerned about stringers beneath the hatch. If the boat has a lot of rot elsewhere, you would get most, if not all of your money back from the engine and trailer. It just depends if...

If only it were that easy! The screws I had were slightly smaller diameter too. I had hoped to run them a little deeper in the same holes. I hate when that SOB Murphy shows up on a simple project!:)

Most are likely the same, but I don't have experience to know. I can tell you when I was all ready to put everything back together with new hardware (on the weekend) that I was mighty pissed when the slightly longer screws wouldn't work and there was no place for me to source something...

Be aware that on the 99 248, there is a metal tube or angle about a ½" below the cap. Make sure the screws you use aren't too long or you will need to source different screws. Ask me how I know! Ideally, use the same length and diameter screws.

Looks like you should forget owning a SUV and rent truck for the 1.4% of the time you need a tow vehicle. I haven't weighed a 265, but I'm confident when fully wet you will be north of 10k with the trailer.

Shop Zuke or Honda 250s with electronic controls for at least $20k less. If you are really budget sensitive go Tohatsu. They are mechanical Hondas and can be attained for under $50k if you know where to look. They will be similar in weight to what you have now, more powerful, more efficient, and...

With all sincerity, thank you for posting the problem and solution. Many keyboard cowboys would not do the same, especially when thinking the problem is elsewhere. I appreciate your contribution. Hopefully you get the rest sorted out soon.

On our old single engine 248, the prop was buried like yours. I think Grady had to do this on all the older, short-hulled, single engine boats to avoid prop "bite" issues. Ours ran similar to factory performance, but the really annoying part was porpoising. We raised the engine one hole. The...

Have you always ran 93 octane in those engines? I ask because not all engines like higher octane, especially if they aren't programmed to take advantage of it. 2 strokes especially can be more sensitive since the energy density of 93 is lower than 87, and it burns cooler in a 2 stroke -...

I sincerely hope it doesn't, but if a main bearing takes a dump in the near future, we will know why. That said, I'm often amazed at the abuse and neglect some machinery can take, then baffled by how little it can take to trash something. Ox66's were known to be able to take a beating, so I'm...