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You can also run some thick mono around the hatch prior to using the silicone. The next time you need to get in just pull the mono to break the seal. I do this on the small rear one that I have to get into for service.

I would go with Deemaxx over the Kodiak. If you look at where the Deemaxx guys came from you'll understand. They have a great warranty and they are easy to deal with. Owens uses their SS components

Fiberglass Coatings will color match gelcoat if you can't find it.

Look for an installer that has the laser tool.

Seadek also has some drawbacks. I can say the style my BIL used through Castaway does have a few problems. - Dogs nails can cause damage! For the price it needs to not scratch. - It seems to get slick when it's really wet. We were slipping around pulling stone crab traps. - Watch the...

If you are a hardcore fisherman just pickup a couple commercial grey outdoor mats from Sam's. Our commercial boat used them for years under your fishing spot on the boat.

If you can make it flush I think you're better off, but probably wouldn't make a difference. Any corrosion on the back side or is there a thin plastic gasket (my Grady had one)? There could be a possible dissimilar metal issue with the stainless and aluminum, but probably overthinking it.

I have sleeved them with PVC bonded to the core with thickened epoxy. After running the wire backfilling with below the water line rated sealant. Add clamshell to finish. I like the hose idea for sealing small holes. I did use a balloon to do something similar on a garboard hole.

Correct. I wasn't suggesting to use a moisture meter on the bottom paint. A simple visual check of the garboard plug and surrounding area can tell a lot. Removing a screw and checking for sunken in hardware is usually a good sign to move on or pay for a professional.

Surveyors are like home inspectors...good luck ;)

You really have to use a moisture meter. How did the garboard look? Did it look sunken in? Might be hard to tell with bottom paint. The garboard is usually a good area for water intrusion.

Wow! I could make something like that all out of glass and make it removable. I need to think about this! lol

The factory tanks are usually rather cheapo as they use thinner aluminum. A good certified builder will be able to replicate and most likely suggest a thicker gauge material. This is my suggestion. https://www.customaluminumfueltanksfl.com/

I have seen some mounted on the swim platform of a couple Parker's in my area. It's actually a pretty good spot because you fish in the stern and will be on the actual spot. This would only be for a spot lock setup.

Rub rail is another spot. It can come in through the mounting screws if they are not sealed.

I have a pack of the wooden plugs. Hope they stay in my emergency box.

Yep, 300 with electronic controls rigged was just about $20k. What’s the 20’ rated for? 200?

Yep, I have done it a bunch of times for different boat parts. I need to do the insert for the faucet on the deck. You just clean the part, use some wax or PVA and glass away. You can modify with polyurethane foam. After you glass over it and the part is pulled you just clean the foam out. I...

Hard to tell from the pics. If the glass looks swollen around the washers like they are sinking in I would move on. Probably worth having someone with a moisture meter.

If your only going around the edge and not pulling the bracket use any sealant that's recommended for below the water line. If you pull the bracket I would use 5200. If it's an original bracket those bolts can be an issue. I had one the started to spin inside the bracket when I removed it...