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Thanks for the link. Coincidentally, I did apply the aluminum loaded epoxy to the corroded areas on the thermostat housing last spring (after cleaning the aluminum block extremely well) and I'll report on how it's holding out after the winter. I also put it on the thermostat to isolate it from...

If you have an F225 engine pre-2005, be aware that the tstat (copper) will corrode the block (aluminum) where the tstat sits. When it corrodes through, salt water is sprayed into the air intake and will trash the engine. How do I know? - my stbd engine now has a new powerhead. My port engine...

Defender is selling Pompanette seats with the Grady logo for $350! Note the extra shipping charge. Maybe someone on the forum is in the market... http://www.defender.com/product.jsp?pat ... id=3019271

I've tried a number of polishes on a 13 ft Whaler I'm restoring plus on my Grady 265. (BTW the gelcoat on the Grady is far superior to the Whaler). I found the best result when using Buff Magic is to use a buff ball in a drill, not a buffing machine. The gunnels on the 265 look like new after...

I just did this on an old 13 ft whaler I bought. I used a rubber wheel on a drill- it removed the #s completely and in about 20 min. Here's what I used: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00488 ... ailpages00 It's an amazing tool for removing stickers, decals, etc.

forgot to post this

Something else to look for when you're doing the winter work. Yamaha, with their great materials engineering capabilities, has the copper tstat in contact with the aluminum block. In salt water, that means the block loses and gets corroded away. In my case, the hole squirted salt water into...

I tried a test on the bow section after a long day on choppy seas where I sprayed SA on half and water on the other half. Let it dry, no scrubbing. No residue on the SA side, lots of dried salt on the other side. Pretty dramatic. BTW SA is a surfactant, not an acid, based on its MSDS...

I have an '04 265 which has slightly less deadrise then yours but the bilge areas look the same. I put a shoot thru at the location of your port "red dot" and it worked fine to about 30 mph. I upgraded the tducer to a B60 thru hull further aft and it works perfectly to 40 mph+. I'm not near...

I'm with Robert 100%- the conversion works great and will save $$. Very reliable set up

I found the same thing with my F225s until I checked the actual fuel used compared to the totalizer on the fuel mgmt gauge (multiple times). The gauge is off by 11% or more. It can be adjusted by about 3% if I recall correctly. Reset the fuel totalizer to zero, fill the tank and see how much...

I agree with "Enough" about the access, which, along with the replacement costs, are the key reasons that I switched it out. WRT to the design of the pump, while it might be a good design, the conditions are horrible- submerged in salt water with a low pH for years both inside and out. Yuk...

Glad it looks helpful. Be sure to PM me if you have any specific questions or need more pics.

Hi- search my postings and you'll find what I did to install a conventional macerator pump external to the tank. Was a fairly easy project and is maintainable. Let me know if you have any questions.

This seems like a good option. Could you please post a picture of the covered boat? I would like to see how they handle the hardtop and getting it on/off. Thanks

Sorry for the delayed post. I have a 2004 265 w/ F225s. Not my favorite engines, but that's a story for another day. When I bought the boat 4 years ago it had 15 1/4 x 17 Yam Saltwater series (not 2) props. Engines over-revved (>6000 RPM) and it didn't seem right. Bought 15 1/4 x 19 SWS...

My 2004 F225s had the dry corrosion problem but the port engine also needed a new powerhead due to the hole in the block by the thermostat. As another poster said, it sprayed salt water into the intake manifold and corroded the valves so they wouldn't move. Turns out the tstat is made of...

We use the typical folding cockpit chairs with the thick vinyl cushions/armrests. Something like this but mine are Garelick http://www.westmarine.com/buy/west-mari ... 40_006_515 They are comfortable and fold up so that they fit against the side gunnels when the transom gate is down.

i had a similar intermittent problem with my F225s. Turned out to be particles in the VST and when the fuel flow increased to a point, they got sucked down and collected around the VST screen and almost shut off the fuel flow. Slow it down, the screen opened up enough to have it run right...

I have a 2004 model, so I can't help on the conversion of the seating. The backrest is held on with a SS fitting that attaches with a thumbscrew, so I'm not sure how you would retrofit it. Re the fuel economy, I have F225s (rebuilt because of the corrosion I might add) and I monitor fuel...