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Here is a new sensor with the old one. I'm not sure where the heat came from. The 2amp fuse was blown so I think the vibration must have caused a fault. It worked for a few years, but as above, I'll go with a float switch for now.

I need 2 also.

That is a drain for my cup/rod holders. There are 2 on the stern. One of these days I'll put that to a drain above the floor.

Is this about as far as you take the windless apart for grease and checking? It works fine but I wanted some input. I rarely use it, never in salt. I've used it 3 or 4 times in the Columbia River.

Wobbles and squeaks? Mine did that and then totally seized up. It turned out a bolt within the tilt had backed out and lodged in the works. You might want to check it again. YMMV

I put in a nice easy float switch on a stainless platform about 1 1/2" higher than the bilge float switch. Easy to replace, no more blown fuses.

I'm wondering if others have issues with this high water alarm? I had mine mounted above the bilge pump in the stern. This year I cannot get the thing to stop blowing fuses near the battery. I replaced the run of wire from bilge to helm on the off chance the protective sleeve was worn. The...

Do you get the socks down to a specific depth? The reason I ask is an old fisherman uses a drogue but gets it down about 50 feet. He says he catches more halibut using the drogue.

Halfhitch, simple and easy. I like it.

I had a local guy do my bolsters for $600. I should have done it myself. OP - did you add the bolts that are shown in the first photos? I'm looking for a way to avoid the screws that the factory used.

Does anyone else have this issue? It comes from folks closing the lid when the hatch catch is partially open. I was thinking of cutting out a quarter moon piece. There is not enough room to put in a metal edge which I had hoped to do. Any ideas - besides throwing people overboard.

I'm wondering the same. My boat will be moored until Nov. and that is a bunch of seagull poop. I'd rather remove them but need some way to secure them.

Another Shurhold user.

2 wires from the bilge pump, 2 wires from the float switch, both sets disappear into the port side. An auto pump has 3 wires. Without rewiring, an auto pump will not work. I'm not digging into the port wire loom. Just easier to order a 2 wire pump.

Sparkdog, I once had a Yami 150 worked on and they used heat to remove the bearing carrier. Mechanic told me he uses a Merc coating when installing the carrier so it can be removed next time. Does this sound reasonable? Sorry, I did not ask him what product he used. Just wondering.

I gave up. The boat is wired for a non-automatic bilge (2 wire) , so I ordered a larger non-automatic bilge pump. It should work from the helmet switch and the float switch. 2 wires from the bilge pump, 2 wires from the float switch, both sets disappear into the port side. I don't feel like...

I have a 2007 and enjoy the Marlin. It takes the wind waves in stride. I've fished in water that I didn't like but the boat was never unsafe. I spend a few nights in the cuddy for back to back fishing trips. I stopped sleeping in the mid-Berth due to my back issues. I tow the boat twice a...

DO NOT remove the bolt with the red mark. That is for anyone else reading this. I use a large punch that just fits in, and using a friction fit, just wiggle that a bit, anode will come out. No gouges, no teeth Mark's from pliers. A bit of grease is a great tip. Makes checking them easier.

Russ, you have inspired me to hunt down my problem. My forward bilge works from the helmet switch, will not work from the auto switch.

Yes, I have a hose fitting for the Groco filter. I need one more day to finish bottom painting, then I can pull it out of my shop to test. I'll also run the gender using the same style of adaptor.