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the fishbox and upper transom are two different things. the fishbox is a drop in. don't know exactly how to get around the box for a bolt-thru (you can pop the box out) but the transom must have some meat to screw into. gw will be able to tell you how thick your year transom is. ron

call gw and ask them about your specific year. for mine (2009) the genset can be run while underway, but the seacock CANNOT be left open underway if the genset is OFF. i have a pancake intake under the boat. i don't know if they used scoops earlier. they will tell you directly. ron

did this happen during the super hot days?

i spoke to my dealer about this. he said the 89 is required to achieve the performance specified for the engine (i have f350's) but that it will run on lower octane. as in cars, he said the new engines automatically adjust - but performance will slightly suffer. let's here from the tech guys. ron

before you go nuts, go thru the reset procedure first. it is simple to do and it was my problem. ron

i just push the ends in a little as i roll it. still sticks out some so i put it in front or behind the other two when they are rolled. ron

anybody with F350's on a 330 upgrade to the 4 blade yamaha props? ron

my '02 was located under the deck plate in the cabin step. but that is where the Y-valve was also. ron

pop the access plates. it should be stamped on top of each tank.

as noted, the specs are for optimal conditions. i would wait until seas flatten out and then try. in the meantime, check those fuel filters.

hi shams, i would think not. take a look at the spec. http://www.gradywhite.com/300/ looks like you should be running around 57 mph and turning 5900. are you using 89 octane fuel? if not, may be some performance impact. also check prop specs against the perf sheet and don't forget fuel...

check your dmv. in nj, you need a permit -- not sure what is entailed. ron

do you use the shower or a/c when it happens? could be overflowing the sump. look for leaks also: freshwater etc. check if limber holes are gunked up to the rear. there will be some water since the larger boats don't generally sit bow high. ron

i don't know. if it were my boat, i would not trust rubber plugs for a slipped/moored boat.

pick up a copy of "radar for mariners" by david burch (glen from tht suggested) it is very useful and worth reading before you spend the money if you are that unfamiliar with radar. one caution; there is some EXTREMELY technical sections that might make your head hurt. the majority is very...

i'm not completely following, but if there is any suspicion; i would install a brand new garboard plug setup. i used T plugs for trailer boats, but i would be very concerned about them for an in-water boat. ron

i had a 4kw w/ my c-80. nice display. used kvh autocomp 1000 heading sensor for overlay. you need to figure out what you want as far as target distinction and go from there. you can spend a little or a lot of $$. ron

on my 330, the bulkhead in the mid-berth behind the steps is a removable panel. full access to the a/c is from there. don't know how the 300 is laid out. ron

i'm sure someone here can shoot a couple of pics for you.

shams, glad it finally got there! take a look at the owner's manual for a start; there is a diagram in the appendix. gw may be able to give you more detail schematics, but this is good. good luck, ron http://www.gradywhite.com/customer/manu ... &model=300