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http://www.gradywhite.com/customer/catalogs/ Look at the catalogs starting with the late 70s. Those will show you the differences in each.

You are right, the design was fine...it's the implementation that was off. That aluminum trim that was used to cover the cap to hull joint at the motor cutout was a joke. Probably one of the top 3 reasons behind transom rot in these boats. Guess what...factory installed...and how many...

Nice job. :)

I use Rowmark ultra-matte black engraving stock. It's UV stable and suitable for an outdoor/marine environment. http://www.rowmark.com/rotary/ultra-mat ... _front.asp These are the two I have built with the stuff. Planning on another two with the same material for the Sailfish soon.

This one of the beefs I have with GW and many other current manufacturers. The Sailfish shouldn't try to compete in th 28' to 30' market. It's still only a 25' boat.... Sure the hull length might be 28 now, but it has no more usable space than my 25' Sailfish.

I second Raybo. He is a frequent poster on ClassicMako. Go check out some of his work and you'll see what I mean. Depending on your location, you might also try Young's if in NJ and Aaron Anderson of Anderson Yacht if in Northern MD. Both do top notch work.

Go wake him up....there's work to be done! :)

Have you gotten a vessel safety check? If not, do so (it's free) and you'll then have a sticker to display. They might cut you some slack if they see you've been checked out. http://www.safetyseal.net/GetVSC/

I paint a coat of resin on first and then lay down the glass. When laying down large pieces like that, hold them up so you can try to smooth things out as you lay the piece down. More resin on top and then the key is to go over it with one of those ribbed metal rollers.

I've heard that the small squares are used to try and prevent water migration throughout the entire core. They are usually oriented so with the grain at 90 degrees to the adjoining pieces to limit the pathways for water to travel. I found the same thing in my Sailfish tank covers. Pulled...

Not sure. I have yet to have any run-ins w/ them.

Prior to doing anything, make sure you slide the boat back far enough so that once you move the rollers they are still under the boat. You can easily fine tune the final position once the major work is done. Keep it hitched to your truck the whole time too.

The high pressure pump and VST filter are inside the silver VST cannister on the port side of the engine. If you are changing/cleaning the filter, I found it's easier to unmount the whole cannister. Makes the screws in the back that hold it together easier to get to.

BTW - sorry 'bout the mis info. I was only looking at the front rollers.

I would try to use the holes that are already there. Drilling a new one will expose new metal that doesn't have the galvanizing on it. You can spray cold galvanize on the area, but that stuff doesn't hold up and you'll have rust in no time. Anyway, here's what I would do... 1. Move the...

I bet you could move the rear most crossmember back instead of moving the axles forward. Secure it using the bolts running through the frame that hold on your tail light brackets.

Those arms might be stuck/frozen together, but they aren't one piece. They can be moved indepedently. Loosen those little u-bolts enough and you'll see. Here's some shots of my old 204 on the trailer. It's hard to see the rollers though...

That's not the fault of your trailer, it's poor layup. Where does the last roller sit in relation to the transom? I like them to be within a few inches and that will determine the location of your bow stop. I woudn't more the roller support assemblies at all. Just loosen the u-bolts the...

That's the best way to go about it. Use the manufacturer's products while the warranty is in place. Once it expires, do what you want. I run Amsoil and Ringfree in all of my outboards (none of which are under warranty), regardless of manufaturer.

Been shopping rigging for my newly acquired 200 OX66s and have a question about tachometers. I see that some have integrated hour meters and I was wondering if those hours get pulled from the engine's ECU (which I know cannot provide RPM history) or if they are maintaned by the tach itself? If...