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Show us your router, and bit. Did you get a table, or did you stick to hand held? Half of the job should be screwed, or clamped down, either the work or the tool. Hard to control a handheld and a loose board. A P-lam router is harder to control than a router with a larger surface.

On my 2000, there are just screws, one in the back, two in the middle, and three in the front. But, the screws are close to the bottom of the rail, and the top of the three little “boxes“ that they are screwed into, so moving them up gives you less contact surface. What I would do is use a...

Someone posted recently that they owned one. I don’t recall it being for sale.

The problem with Cruisairs is that you have to lug it up on the bow every evening, and down in the morning, if the boat is underway, and have a place to store it. Easier on a walkaround than on an express. I used on once about 20 years ago, when I was in my 50's, never again. My advice then...

On my Seafarer, there is a good sized area under the walkaround, and to the left of the helm passenger's feet. Your cabin is larger than mine, but if I were putting AC on my boat for a limited number of nights per year, I would put a small portable there, and duct it right through the bulkhead...

If you have a pulpit, I think that you will be closer to 30 feet, with the engine raised.

Thanks, you're both right. I found a better picture showing the livewell strut at 8" overall.

Thanks, I just found some pics I took in September, and it looks like all 3 are 10".

I realize that this thread has been about the livewell hatch strut, just asking if the livewell and the helm seat hatches use the same strut? You are using the 7.5" instead of the 10". Does the hatch open all the way, or does it lean forward?

20 pounds should not crack the support legs. You would have more than that with 5 large trolling outfits in the rocket launcher.

Are you asking about just the top, or the pipe frame as well?

Is the same strut used on the two hatches behind the helm seats, or are they different lengths?

Definitely an aftermarket top. Do a Google image search for Grady White Seafarer, if you want to know what the factory top looks like.

Both of mine are one piece, Tournament hinged on the port side, Seafarer aft. Both will open with the windlass in place. This was my access on my Glacier Bay catamaran.

My last 2 have been on the hatch, or rather a replacement starboard hatch, with no problems. Straight drop in the deep part of the locker.

You are right Dennis, a lot of water would run through a hose in a night’s sleep. Russ, the raw water circulation pump will also be connected to the AC side of your distribution panel.

If you don't want another hole thru the bottom, you could get raw water from the livewell feed by using a Rule pump with the second port. Never occured to me to not have raw water for AC, but I guess if only used at dockside, a hose could eliminate both the raw water and the pump. As long as...

I put an arch on mine, six upright and two horizontal. Also put four 90° in the transom. Usually I have a couple of clamp ons on the Bimini uprights.

Much easier to work with a table mounted router, than a handheld one. Remember that you will need to countersink your screws in the thinned down edge, so leave enough for that.

Give yourself some working room around your router. The plastic 'sawdust' from KSB will get in everything within 10 feet of your router, unless your vacuum system is a lot better than mine. I put down a tarp to catch as much as possible, to make clean up easier.