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It's a guess, but I'd expect you will be in the 1.8-2.0 MPG range. I have fuel management tied into my Simrad GO7 on my 225 OX66....at 32 MPH and about 4200 rpm I'm getting 2.5 mpg. You are carb'ed and have 25 less HP, hence my guess.

Another vote for the 10 micron filter here. I change mine 2x a year. I'm diligent with PRI-G and Ring Free. And I buy my fuel at street stations where I know it's fresh. The major station near the ramp is now carrying Ethanol Free 87 and its the same price as Premium so I've been buying it, but...

Fire it up and run it until it's dry. It won't take longer then a couple minutes.

Definitely worth draining the tank and replacing the filter in the bottom of it. It's not a difficult job, but you do need to dispose of the oil. The filter is about $20 or so.

What is the issue? Did he water test the boat? Has he run another 375 to see if the issue is specific to his hull(hook or other deformaties) or if its a characteristic of all 375s. Probably need more info before folks can chime in.....

You will need a 20" shaft on that transom unless it's been replaced and built up. I'd look for a 150....many options out there to choose from. Go where you can get the best deal.

Bo - welcome back. Did you sell the other one or are you a two boat owner? NAPA sells the blades...the part numbers are 60XX70. XX is the length of the blade. On my 225 they are 16". You may want longer ones for the bigger windshield on the Sailfish. They are about $10 or so. If you can't...

If you slipping the boat, the easiest cover to put on and take off will be one that snaps around the cockpit and bow. This means a custom job. Here is a pic of mine. I paid right around $1K for it last year. I know everything is more expensive in CA but it will give you an idea anyway.....

Yes....and no... In 1995, the hull was redesigned and the "euro" transom was added. This increased the length of the boat from 25'4" to 27'10". However, for GW purposes, the running length of the hull was the same. And the SeaV2 design was the same. Hope this confuses you even more :grin:

TXR(Z) T - Trim and Tilt X - 25" shaft R - Remote shift (Z) - Model Year. These have since gone away. But Z designates 2001. Clean gear lube will be amber in color. As long as it's not milky you are OK. You definitely want to pull the prop....make sure there is no fishing line that would...

NO WOOD is very recent, like in the last year or two. But - since about '99 or 2000 they used fully encapsulated wood with a lifetime guarantee from Greenwood. I wouldn't shy away from a boat of that vintage. The early 90s was when the hulls were converted to the Sea V2 design. The last one...

Been down this road....water pump was good...thermostats checked out OK when they were removed and tested in boiling water. Ended up being the poppits.

Welcome to the group....205 is a great boat. Don't be afraid to ask us questions - and also be sure to post pics up once you get it.

Zimm - I owned a 180. Without tabs. And without hydraulic steering. The boat performed just fine. That said, adding both adds another $2500 to the rig. I'd wait until you move.....plenty of boat shows in January and February to get a decent deal.

Single axle 17-19 (which is also you need for that boat) will weigh more like 550-600. While it's close, for short distance flat land towing you will be fine. Fill up close to the ramp and you will lighten your towed weight even more.

Rob, I also responded to your post on THT....have you looked at the cross-chase that is installed in the floor just forward of the livewell/coolers? That should be the shortest run to get to the port side. Page 6-11 of the owners manual shows the location of the tube.

This is a challenge because of the cabin and walkaround. If you can't get through the cross-run chase in the floor, then go down and across the stern then back up the other side.

Re: DeWalt 20 V Impact Driver: Any Of You Gents Own / Use O I have a 24V one that I bought off Amazon....don't recall the brand name but it's an off brand. More than satisfied with it. It's a handy tool to have.

This sounds more to me like the gauge might be shot. (Also a not uncommon problem.) If clearing the pitot hole doesn't resolve it, I'd start watching eBay or check with your local dealer. I know my dealer has a box of old gauges lying around from repowers....often times you can pick one up cheap.

It's also without the bow pulpit.