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that's pretty much it. not a lot to add. if the 225's are clean (no corrosion) then using them till they're done gets all you can from the engines. repowering at eol will leave you open to availability at "critical" time, price increases, poor bargaining position yada, yada. but, newest...

9'10" is bridge clearance (waterline to top of hardtop). Draft 25". that's approx 11'11" back of the napkin total (transom depth not necessarily same as midships). you can play with the math yourself and see how low a trailer (dolly?) has to be to make it work. good luck, ron ps. assumes...

http://www.sea-dog.com/groups/468-winds ... bumper-pad

i can't speak for any boat other than mine, but the hot comes off of the line stud on the back of the battery switch. which is effectively directly from the battery. then to the breaker. last year i tore down and cleaned, greased and coated all the contacts behind the panel. worth the...

first, visually check the breaker and power feeds to it. may get your answer right there. then check wire continuity from the breaker to the float. if that is good, check power thru the breaker. breakers do go bad. good luck, ron

you don't actually raise the pod to the max, only enough to see your electronics. i have twin garmin 5212's mounted. absolutely no issues. i'm 5'5". good luck, ron

go here for info. http://www.seedealercost.com/boats and "selling price" is $123K. i always consider the buy and the trade as 2 separate transactions. keeps it cleaner. good luck, ron

GE silicone II (almond) is the retail version of what GW uses over the past decade or so (per them). that's what i use. good luck, ron

OEM thruster? which boat? like dennis said, quick reversing is bad. that said, could be a problem with the leg, may be bad from water intrusion. my pin has held up nicely (until now of course :shock: ) the prop, on the other hand, is another story. good luck, ron

you can try imtra to see if they sell individual parts. ron

bring it to the top of the trim range and you will get more rpms. at 2 bars standing, my antivents are just parallel with the surface of the water. but, performance numbers aren't established under the worst conditions. so, as soon as you move off of their model, you will likely increase or...

don't just look at the top of the arc, does the blade hit the sides at all? if not, the arm should be extendable. maybe someone forgot to set it. good luck, ron

just buy a brand new one. blueseas, marinco, etc. any boating store/website. but, these are one piece blocks (with a cover). it should not have fallen apart, especially on a 2004 vessel. was this oem? it sounds odd that gw would put a distribution block on a bulkhead meant to be removable...

and keep people away from the throttle while the engine is running. ron

NUDGE into gear, then nudge up the throttle. ron

i've been boating for a long time and can't possibly see why you would be disappointed with a 250 on a 22'. also, while hulls change over time, be careful of numbers games. haven't looked at the specs, but check total weight capacity for comparison. and design change may have put 2 more seats...

i use a channel-loc and just pull the anode off. under that is a nut holding the prop on. when you reassemble, use a lot of dielectric grease over the backside of the anode and screw. makes things a lot easier. (grease the prop also with good marine grease) good luck, ron

Re: Gulfstream Hull Harness: Where Does it Come Out Up Front look in your manual. there are very good diagrams of many things, including rigging tubes. if you bought used, you should be able to download one from GW. good luck, ron

you won't get more than 600hp. max rating for that year. are they the v-8 or 6's

re: 2009 factory curtains, GW recommends denatured alcohol to clean. they list a few different protective products for use after that. i clean with the alcohol and use Plexus. good luck, ron