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I would add BOEMarine.com for electronics. SIMYamaha.com (Andy) for Yamaha parts. domo-online.com for Yamalube and RingFree.

Congrats on the purchase. I would absolutely connect the VHF and Garmin. You want your coordinates to be sent if you ever push the distress button. And, if you ever receive a distress call, it's nice to see the location appear on the screen. You will likely want a pedestal for the radome, as...

Congrats on the purchase....be sure to post pics. Your routing is fine....I'm assuming you are taking 40 to Winston-Salem...then 52 North which turns into I-74 to I-77. Since it's a new trailer, I'd make sure to check everything after the first 100 miles or so...and then again once you put the...

Glad you made it safely. Which route did you end up taking?

Call GW and have them send you the spreadsheet showing the opening size. GW made the opening bigger in either 2000 or 2001. I can't recall.

Should have no issues if you flush mount it. Remove the door and have a panel fabricated. Either FL Marine Plastics or Fin-Addict have the matching 1/2" starboard in the GW color.

Great Lakes Boat Tops made the original canvas. Check their website.

All good advice. I use weed whacker line when I leave one in there. Cotton string gets wet and starts to deteriorate.

The stern jump seats on the 222 are an option. They are the "fold down" type....not molded into the hull like the 180 or 209. I'm sure they can be added, if you don't already have them. I'm also sure they are pricey, if you have to buy them from the GW dealer.

My '86 had a 20" transom. I too had to repower and it was a challenge to find a used 20" 150. Wound up going with a Yamaha VMax and it worked perfectly. The 1988 catalog shows a 25" transom and I think that was the first year of the change. A jackplate would work the other way....a 25" motor...

Congratulations on the purchase.... I too would get south as soon as you can and then cross the country. The miserable winter will end eventually, but maybe not soon enough to not impact your trip. 64 to 81 to 40 would be my recommendation. If you have concerns about 40 still being too far...

Unless the buyer admits he took them, or you have surveillance camera video showing he took them, this is going to quickly degenerate into a he said/she said scenario. Hope the broker can get it resolved....

I've been contemplating the same option. If nothing else, you will have a legitimate 200 hp at the prop. 20 years ago the HP was measured at the powerhead and so it wasn't really 200 where the prop met the water. You will have no weight problems...I'd expect better fuel economy...and...

Without pics, it's just a guess but I suspect it's a patch job. Non-skid is exceedingly difficult to match.

I saw one...it's definitely a different look... Not cheap though...well north of $100K. Again - not really my cup of tea but GW does their research and that must suggest there is a market.

You are fine...

I'm confused...do you not want torsion axles? I've had both and any new trailer that I spec now always has torsions... You can go with the cadmium / dacromet coated Kodiak or Deemaxx and that will be more than sufficient for fresh water only. I run them on my trailer that sees both fresh and...

Aluminum trailers anodize....that's the dull color. You can acid wash it off but it's going to come back anyway and it actually provides a barrier to protect the aluminum. 8500 lb capacity is plenty for the Voyager. I would check and make sure the trailer is LONG ENOUGH though....I've owned 3...

Tie Downs are garbage. Look for either Kodiak or Deemaxx. Best place to buy is Eastern Marine. Good prices and every helpful.

It's either the vent or the anti-siphon valve. Try running it with the fuel fill cap open and see if that helps. If not, then you can eliminate the vent.